Water Damage Concerns
​Basements are typically the area of a structure most at risk for water damage because they are located below grade and surrounded by soil.  Soil releases water it has absorbed during rain or when snow melts, and the water can end up in the basement through leaks or cracks.  Water can even migrate through solid concrete walls via capillary action, which is a phenomenon whereby liquid spontaneously rises in a narrow space, such as a thin tube, or via porous materials.  Wet basements can cause problems that include peeling paint, toxic mold contamination, building rot, foundation collapse, and termite damage.  Even interior air quality can be affected if naturally occurring gasses released by the soil are being transmitted into the basement.
Properly waterproofing a basement will lessen the risk of damage caused by moisture or water.  Homeowners will want to be aware of what they can do to keep their basements dry and safe from damage.  Inspectors can also benefit from being aware of these basic strategies for preventing leaks and floods.
Prevent water entry by diverting it away from the foundation.
Preventing water from entering the basement by ensuring it is diverted away from the foundation is of primary concern.  Poor roof drainage and surface runoff due to gutter defects and improper site grading may be the most common causes of wet basements.  Addressing these issues will go a long way toward ensuring that water does not penetrate the basement.
Here are some measures to divert water away from the foundation:

• Install and maintain gutters and downspouts so that they route all rainwater and snow melt far enough away from the foundation of the building to ensure that pooling does not occur near the walls of the structure.  At least 10 feet from the building is best, and at the point where water leaves the downspout, it should be able to flow freely away from the foundation instead of back toward it, and should not be collecting in pools.
  
  
• The finish grade should be sloped away from the building for 10 to 15 feet.  Low spots that may lead to water pooling should be evened out to prevent the possibility of standing water near the foundation.
  
  
• Shallow ditches called swales should be used in conditions where one or more sides of the building face an upward slope.  A swale should slope away from the building for 10 to 15 feet, at which point it can empty into another swale that directs water around to the downhill-side of the building, leading it away from the foundation.

Repair all cracks and holes.
 
If leaks or seepage is occurring in the basement's interior, water and moisture are most likely entering through small cracks or holes.  The cracks or holes could be the result of several things.  Poor workmanship during the original build may be making itself apparent in the form of cracks or holes.  Water pressure from the outside may be building up, forcing water through walls.  The house may have settled, causing cracks in the floor or walls.  Repairing all cracks and small holes will help prevent leaks and floods.
 
Here are some steps to take if you suspect that water is entering the basement through cracks or holes:

• Identify areas where water may be entering through cracks or holes by checking for moisture, leaking or discoloration.  Every square inch of the basement should be examined, especially in cases where leaking or flooding has not been obvious, but moisture buildup is readily apparent.
  
  
• A mixture of epoxy and latex cement can be used to fill small hairline cracks and holes.  This is a waterproof formula that can help ensure that moisture and water do not penetrate basement walls.  It is effective primarily for very small cracks and holes.
  
  
• Any cracks larger than about 1/8-inch should be filled with mortar made from one part cement and two parts fine sand, with just enough water to make a fairly stiff mortar.  It should be pressed firmly into all parts of the larger cracks and holes to be sure that no air bubbles or pockets remain.  As long as water is not being forced through basement walls due to outside pressure, the application of mortar with a standard trowel will be sufficient if special care is taken to fill all cracks completely.
  
  
• If water is being forced through by outside pressure, a slightly different method of patching with mortar can be used.  Surface areas of walls or floors with cracks should first be chiseled out a bit at the mouth of the crack and all along its length.  Using a chipping chisel and hammer or a cold chisel, cut a dovetail groove along the mouth of each crack to be filled, and then apply the mortar thoroughly.  The dovetail groove, once filled, should be strong enough to resist the force of pressure that was pushing water through the crack.

Apply sodium-silicate sealant to the walls and floor.
Once all runoff has been thoroughly diverted away from the foundation, and all cracks and holes have been repaired and no leaking is occurring, a waterproof sealant can be applied as a final measure. 
Sodium silicate is a water-based mixture that will actually penetrate the substrate by up to 4 inches.  Concrete, concrete block and masonry have lime as a natural component of their composition, which reacts with the sodium silicate to produce a solid, crystalline structure which fills in all the microscopic cracks, holes and pores of the substrate.  No water vapor or gas will be able penetrate via capillary action because the concrete and masonry have now become harder and denser from the sodium silicate. 
 
Here are some steps and tips for its application:

• Special care should be taken when applying sodium silicate.  It is an alkaline substance and, as such, can burn skin and eyes if it comes into contact with them.  Inhalation can also cause irritation to the respiratory tract.
  
  
• Sodium silicate must be applied only to bare concrete, concrete block or masonry that has been cleaned thoroughly and is free of any dirt, oil, adhesives, paint and grease.  This will ensure that it penetrates the substrate properly and fills in all microscopic cracks.  It can be applied using a garden sprayer, roller or brush to a surface that has first been lightly dampened with a mop or brush.  Apply two to three coats to the concrete, waiting 10 to 20 minutes between each application.  Concrete block and masonry will take three to four coats, with the same 10 to 20 minutes between applications.  Any excess should then be wiped away.  Sodium silicate should not be over-applied or it will not be completely absorbed by the substrate, leaving a white residue.
  
  
• Paint can then be applied without fear of water vapor getting trapped between the paint and the wall, which could eventually cause blistering and peeling.  Adhesives for tile or floor covering can also be used more effectively, once the substrate has been sealed.

Diverting water away from foundations so that it does not collect outside basement walls and floors is a key element in preventing flooding and water damage.  Ensuring that any water that does end up near basement exteriors cannot enter through holes or cracks is also important, and sealing with a waterproof compound will help prevent water vapor or gas from penetrating, as well.  By following these procedures, the risk of water-related issues in basement interiors can be greatly reduced, protecting the building from damage such as foundation rotting, mold growth, and peeling paint, as well as improving the interior air quality by blocking the transmission of gasses from the soil outside. 

​Attached Garage Fire Hazardsby Nick Gromicko, CMI® and Kenton Shepard

The purpose of this article is twofold. First, at InterNACHI, we’d like you to take measures to keep your garage free from fire. Fortunately, there are ways this can be done, some of which are described below. Secondly, garage fires do happen, and we’d like you to make sure that a fire cannot not easily spread to the rest of your house. While you can perform many of the recommendations in this article yourself, it is a good idea to hire an InterNACHI inspector to make sure your home is safe from a garage fire.
 Why do many garages pose a fire hazard?

• Where are you most likely to do any welding, or any work on your car? These activities require working with all sorts of flammable materials.
• Water heaters and boilers are usually stored in garages, and they can create sparks that may ignite fumes or fluids. Car batteries, too, will spark under certain conditions.
• Oil and gasoline can drip from cars. These fluids may collect unnoticed and eventually ignite, given the proper conditions.
• Flammable liquids, such as gasoline, motor oil and paint are commonly stored in garages. Some other examples are brake fluid, varnish, paint thinner and lighter fluid.

The following tips can help prevent garage fires and their spread:

• If the garage allows access to the attic, make sure a hatch covers this access.
• The walls and ceiling should be fire-rated. Unfortunately, it will be difficult for untrained homeowners to tell if their walls are Type X fire-rated gypsum. An InterNACHI inspector can examine the walls and ceiling to make sure they are adequate fire barriers. 
• The floor should be clear of clutter. Loose papers, matches, oily rags, and other potentially  flammable items are extremely dangerous if they are strewn about the garage floor.
• Use light bulbs with the proper wattage, and do not overload electrical outlets.
• Tape down all cords and wires so they are not twisted or accidentally yanked.

If there is a door that connects the garage to the living area, consider the following:

• Do not install a pet door in the door! Flames can more easily spread into the living area through a pet door, especially if it’s made of plastic.
• Does the door have a window? An InterNACHI inspector can inspect the window to tell if it's fire-rated.
• The door should be self-closing. While it may be inconvenient, especially while carrying groceries into the house from the car, doors should be self-closing. You never know when a fire will happen, and it would be unfortunate to accidentally leave the door open while a fire is starting in the garage.
• Check the joints and open spaces around the door. Are they tightly sealed? Any openings at all can allow dangerous fumes, such as carbon monoxide or gasoline vapor, to enter the living area. An InterNACHI inspector can recommend ways to seal the door so that fumes cannot enter the living area.

Concerning items placed on the floor, you should check for the following:

• Store your flammable liquids in clearly labeled, self-closing containers, and only in small amounts. Keep them away from heaters, appliances, pilot lights and other sources of heat or flame.
• Never store propane tanks indoors. If they catch fire, they can explode. Propane tanks are sturdy enough to be stored outdoors.

In summary, there are plenty of things that you can do to prevent garage fires from spreading to the rest of the house, or to keep them from starting in the first place. However, it is highly recommended that you have your garage periodically examined by an InterNACHI inspector.

 

Home Buyer's and Seller's Guide to Radon 
The EPA recommends:

• If you are buying a home or selling your home, have it tested for radon. 
   
• For a new home, ask if radon-resistant construction features were used and if the home has been tested. 
   
• Fix the home if the radon level is 4 picoCuries per liter (pCi/L) or higher. 
   
• Radon levels less than 4 pCi/L still pose a risk, and in many cases, may be reduced. 
   
• Take steps to prevent device interference when conducting a radon test.

The EPA estimates that radon causes thousands of cancer deaths in the U.S. each year.
 * Radon is estimated to cause about 21,000 lung cancer deaths per year.
The numbers of deaths from other causes are taken from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention's 1999-2001 National Center for Injury Prevention and Control Report and 2002 National Safety Council Reports.
Radon is a cancer-causing, radioactive gas.
You cannot see, smell or taste radon. But it still may be a problem in your home.  When you breathe air containing radon, you increase your risk of getting lung cancer.  In fact, the Surgeon General of the United States has warned that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States today.  If you smoke and your home has high radon levels, your risk of lung cancer is especially high.
You should test for radon.
Testing is the only way to find out your home's radon levels. The EPA and the Surgeon General recommend testing all homes below the third floor for radon.
You can fix a radon problem.
If you find that you have high radon levels, there are ways to fix a radon problem. Even very high levels can be reduced to acceptable levels.
If You Are Selling a Home...
The EPA recommends that you test your home before putting it on the market and, if necessary, lower your radon levels. Save the test results and all information you have about steps that were taken to fix any problems. This could be a positive selling point. 
If You Are Buying a Home...
The EPA recommends that you know what the indoor radon level is in any home you are considering buying.  Ask the seller for their radon test results.  If the home has a radon-reduction system, ask the seller for information they have about the system.
If the home has not yet been tested, you should have the house tested.
If you are having a new home built, there are features that can be incorporated into your home during construction to reduce radon levels.
These radon testing guidelines have been developed specifically to deal with the time-sensitive nature of home purchases and sales, and the potential for radon device interference.  These guidelines are slightly different from the guidelines in other EPA publications which provide radon testing and reduction information for non-real estate situations.
This guide recommends three short-term testing options for real estate transactions.  The EPA also recommends testing a home in the lowest level which is currently suitable for occupancy, since a buyer may choose to live in a lower area of the home than that used by the seller.
1. Why do you need to test for radon?
a. Radon has been found in homes all over the U.S.
Radon is a radioactive gas that has been found in homes all over the United States. It comes from the natural breakdown of uranium in soil, rock and water, and gets into the air you breathe. Radon typically moves up through the ground to the air above, and into your home through cracks and other holes in the foundation. Radon can also enter your home through well water. Your home can trap radon inside.
Any home can have a radon problem, including new and old homes, well-sealed and drafty homes, and homes with or without basements. In fact, you and your family are most likely to get your greatest radiation exposure at home. That is where you spend most of your time.
Nearly one out of every 15 homes in the United States is estimated to have an elevated radon level (4 pCi/L or more).  Elevated levels of radon gas have been found in homes in your state. 
b. The EPA and the Surgeon General recommend that you test your home.
Testing is the only way to know if you and your family are at risk from radon. The EPA and the Surgeon General recommend testing all homes below the third floor for radon.
You cannot predict radon levels based on state, local, or neighborhood radon measurements.  Do not rely on radon test results taken in other homes in the neighborhood to estimate the radon level in your home.  Homes which are next to each other can have different radon levels.  Testing is the only way to find out what your home's radon level is.
In some areas, companies may offer different types of radon service agreements.  Some agreements let you pay a one-time fee that covers both testing and radon mitigation, if needed.  

 
U.S. Surgeon General's
Health Advisory
"Indoor radon gas is the second-leading cause of lung cancer in the United States, and breathing it over prolonged periods can present a significant health risk to families all over the country.  It's important to know that this threat is completely preventable.  Radon can be detected with a simple test, and fixed through well-established venting techniques." 
 January 2005 
2. I'm selling a home.  What should I do? 
a. If your home has already been tested for radon...
If you are thinking of selling your home and you have already tested your home for radon, review the Radon Testing Checklist to make sure that the test was done correctly.  If so, provide your test results to the buyer.
No matter what kind of test you took, a potential buyer may ask for a new test, especially if:
the Radon Testing Checklist items were not met;
the last test is not recent, (e.g., within two years);
you have renovated or altered your home since you tested; or
the buyer plans to live in a lower level of the house than was tested, such as a basement suitable for occupancy but not currently lived in.
A buyer may also ask for a new test if your state or local government requires disclosure of radon information to buyers.
b. If your home has not yet been tested for radon...
Have a test taken as soon as possible. If you can, test your home before putting it on the market.  You should test in the lowest level of the home which is suitable for occupancy. This means testing in the lowest level that you currently live in or a lower level not currently used, but which a buyer could use for living space without renovations. 
The radon test result is important information about your home's radon level.  Some states require radon measurement testers to follow a specific testing protocol.  If you do the test yourself, you should carefully follow the testing protocol for your area or the EPA's Radon Testing Checklist.  If you hire a contractor to test your residence, protect yourself by hiring a qualified individual or company.
You can determine a service provider's qualifications to perform radon measurements or to mitigate your home in several ways.  Many states require radon professionals to be licensed, certified or registered.  Most states can provide you with a list of knowledgeable radon service providers doing business in your state.  In states that don't regulate radon services, ask the contractor if they hold a professional proficiency or certification credential. Such programs usually provide members with a photo-ID card which indicates their qualification(s) and its expiration date.  If in doubt, you should check with their credentialing organization.  Alternatively, ask the contractor if they've successfully completed formal training appropriate for testing or mitigation, e.g., a course in radon measurement or radon mitigation. 
3. I'm buying a home.  What should I do?

a. If the home has already been tested for radon...
If you are thinking of buying a home, you may decide to accept an earlier test result from the seller, or ask the seller for a new test to be conducted by a qualified radon tester.  Before you accept the seller's test, you should determine the results of previous testing by finding out:
who conducted the previous test (the homeowner, a radon professional, or some other person);
where in the home the previous test was taken, especially if you may plan to live in a lower level of the home.  For example, the test may have been taken on the first floor.  However, if you want to use the basement as living space, test there, too;
what, if any, structural changes, alterations, or changes in the heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) system have been made to the house since the test was done.  Such changes may affect radon levels.
If you accept the seller's test, make sure that the test followed the Radon Testing Checklist.  
If you decide that a new test is needed, discuss it with the seller as soon as possible. 
b. If the home has not yet been tested for radon...
Make sure that a radon test is done as soon as possible. Consider including provisions in the contract specifying:
where the test will be located;
who should conduct the test;
what type of test to do;
when to do the test;
how the seller and the buyer will share the test results and test costs (if necessary); and
when radon mitigation measures will be taken, and who will pay for them.

Make sure that the test is done in the lowest level of the home suitable for occupancy. This means the lowest level that you are going to use as living space which is finished or does not require renovations prior to use. A state or local radon official or qualified radon tester can help you make some of these decisions. If you decide to finish or renovate an unfinished area of the home in the future, a radon test should be taken before starting the project, and after the project is finished. Generally, it is less expensive to install a radon-reduction system before (or during) renovations rather than afterward.
4. I'm buying or building a new home.  How can I protect my family?
a. Why should I buy a radon-resistant home?
Radon-resistant techniques work.  When installed properly and completely, these simple and inexpensive passive techniques can help to reduce radon levels.  In addition, installing them at the time of construction makes it easier to reduce radon levels further if the passive techniques don't reduce radon levels below 4 pCi/L.  Radon-resistant techniques may also help to lower moisture levels and those of other soil-gases.  Radon-resistant techniques:
make upgrading easy:  Even if built to be radon-resistant, every new home should be tested for radon after occupancy.  If you have a test result of 4 pCi/L or more, a vent fan can easily be added to the passive system to make it an active system, and further reduce radon levels.
are cost-effective:  Building radon-resistant features into the house during construction is easier and cheaper than fixing a radon problem from scratch later.  Let your builder know that radon-resistant features are easy to install using common building materials.
save money:  When installed properly and completely, radon-resistant techniques can also make your home more energy-efficient and help you save on your energy costs.
In a new home, the cost to install passive radon-resistant features during construction is usually between $350 to $500.  In some areas, the cost may be as low as $100.  A qualified mitigator will charge about $300 to add a vent fan to a passive system, making it an active system and further reducing radon levels.  In an existing home, it usually costs between $800 to $2,500 to install a radon mitigation system.
b. What are radon-resistant features?
Radon-resistant features may vary for different foundations and site requirements.  If you're having a house built, you can learn about the EPA's Model Standards (and architectural drawings) and explain the techniques to your builder.  If your new house was built (or will be built) to be radon-resistant, it will include these basic elements:

1. gas-permeable layer:  This layer is placed beneath the slab or flooring system to allow the soil gas to move freely underneath the house.  In many cases, the material used is a 4-inch layer of clean gravel.  This gas-permeable layer is used only in homes with basement and slab-on-grade foundations; it is not used in homes with crawlspace foundations. 
    
2. plastic sheeting:  Plastic sheeting is placed on top of the gas-permeable layer and under the slab to help prevent the soil gas from entering the home.  In crawlspaces, the sheeting (with seams sealed) is placed directly over the crawlspace floor. 
    
3. sealing and caulking:  All below-grade openings in the foundation and walls are sealed to reduce soil-gas entry into the home. 
    
4. vent pipe:  A 3- or 4-inch PVC pipe (or other gas-tight pipe) runs from the gas-permeable layer through the house to the roof to safely vent radon and other soil gases to the outside. 
    
5. junction boxes:  An electrical junction box is included in the attic to make the wiring and installation of a vent fan easier, if, for example, you decide to activate the passive system if your test results show an elevated radon level (4 pCi/L or more).  A separate junction box is placed in the living space to power the vent-fan alarm.  An alarm is installed along with the vent fan to indicate when the vent fan is not operating properly.

5. How can I get reliable radon test results?
Radon testing is easy and the only way to find out if you have a radon problem in your home.
a. Types of Radon Devices
Since you cannot see or smell radon, special equipment is needed to detect it.  When you're ready to test your home, you can order a radon test kit by mail from a qualified radon measurement service provider or laboratory.  You can also hire a qualified radon tester, very often a home inspector, who will use the radon device(s) suitable to your situation. If you hire a home inspector, make sure you hire a qualified InterNACHI member -- specifically, an IAC2 certified air-quality professional.  The most common types of radon testing devices are listed below.  
Passive Devices
Passive radon-testing devices do not need power to function.  These include charcoal canisters, alpha-track detectors, charcoal liquid scintillation devices, and electret ion chamber detectors, which are available in hardware, drugstores, and other stores; they can also be ordered by mail or phone.  These devices are exposed to the air in the home for a specified period of time, and then sent to a laboratory for analysis.  Both short-term and long-term passive devices are generally inexpensive. Some of these devices may have features that offer more resistance to test interference or disturbance than other passive devices. Qualified radon testers may use any of these devices to measure the home's radon level.
Active Devices
Active radon-testing devices require power to function. These include continuous radon monitors and continuous working-level monitors.  They continuously measure and record the amount of radon and its decay products in the air.  Many of these devices provide a report of this information, which can reveal any unusual or abnormal swings in the radon level during the test period. A qualified tester can explain this report to you.  In addition, some of these devices are specifically designed to deter and detect test interference. Some technically advanced active devices offer anti-interference features.  Although these tests may cost more, they may ensure a more reliable result.
b. General Information for All Devices
A state or local radon official can explain the differences between devices, and recommend the ones which are most appropriate for your needs and expected testing conditions.
Make sure to use a radon measurement device from a qualified laboratory.  Certain precautions should be followed to avoid interference during the test period.  See the Radon Testing Checklist for more information on how to get a reliable test result.
Radon Test Device Placement
The EPA recommends that testing device(s) be placed in the lowest level of the home suitable for occupancy. This means testing in the lowest level (such as a basement) which a buyer could use for living space without renovations. The test should be conducted in a room to be used regularly (such as a family room, living room, play room, den or bedroom); do not test in a kitchen, bathroom, laundry room or hallway.  Usually, the buyer decides where to locate the radon test, based on their expected use of the home.  A buyer and seller should explicitly discuss and agree on the test location to avoid any misunderstanding.  Their decision should be clearly communicated to the person performing the test.
c. Preventing or Detecting Test Interference
There is a potential for test interference in real estate transactions. There are several ways to prevent or detect test interference:
Use a test device that frequently records radon or decay-product levels to detect unusual swings.
Employ a motion detector to determine whether the test device has been moved or if testing conditions have changed.
Use a proximity detector to reveal the presence of people in the room, which may correlate to possible changes in radon levels during the test.
Record the barometric pressure to identify weather conditions which may have affected the test.
Record the temperature to help assess whether doors and windows have been opened during the test. 
Apply tamper-proof seals to windows to ensure closed-house conditions.
Have the seller/occupant sign a non-interference agreement.
Home buyers and sellers should consult a qualified radon test provider about the use of these precautions.
d. Length of Time to Test
There are two general ways to test your home for radon:
Because radon levels vary from day to day and from season to season, a short-term test is less likely than a long-term test to tell you your year-round average radon level.  However, if you need results quickly, a short-term test may be used to decide whether to fix the home.
Short-Term Testing:
The quickest way to test is with short-term tests. Short-term tests remain in your home from two days to 90 days, depending on the device. There are two groups of devices which are more commonly used for short-term testing. The passive-device group includes alpha-track detectors, charcoal canisters, charcoal liquid scintillation detectors, and electret ion chambers. The active device group consists of different types of continuous monitors.
Whether you test for radon yourself, or hire a state-certified tester or a privately certified tester, all radon tests should be taken for a minimum of 48 hours. A longer period of testing is required for some devices.

Long-Term Testing
Long-term tests remain in your home for more than 90 days. Alpha-track andelectret ion chamber detectors are commonly used for this type of testing. A long-term test will give you a reading that is more likely to tell you your home's year-round average radon level than a short-term test. If time permits, long-term tests (more than 90 days) can be used to confirm initial short-term results. When long-term test results are 4 pCi/L or higher, the EPA recommends mitigating the home.
e. Doing a Short-Term Test...
If you are testing in a real estate transaction and you need results quickly, any of the following three options for short-term tests are acceptable in determining whether the home should be fixed. Any real estate test for radon should include steps to prevent or detect interference with the testing device.
When Choosing a Short-Term Testing Option...
There are trade-offs among the short-term testing options.  Two tests taken at the same time (simultaneous) would improve the precision of this radon test.  One test followed by another test (sequential) would most likely give a better representation of the seasonal average.  Both active and passive devices may have features which help to prevent test interference.  Your state radon office can help you decide which option is best.

Short-Term Testing Options
What to Do Next
Passive: 
Take two short-term tests at the same time in the same location for at least 48 hours.  
or 
Take an initial short-term test for at least 48 hours.  Immediately upon completing the first test, do a second test using an identical device in the same location as the first test.

Fix the home if the average of two tests is 4 pCi/L or more.
Fix the home if the average of the two tests is 4 pCi/L or more.
Active: 
Test the home with a continuous monitor for at least 48 hours.

Fix the home if the average radon level is 4 pCi/L or more.
f.  Using testing devices properly for reliable results.
If you do the test yourself:
When you are taking a short-term test, close windows and doors and keep them closed, except for normal entry and exit.  If you are taking a short-term test lasting less than four days, be sure to:
Close your windows and outside doors at least 12 hours before beginning the test.
Do not conduct short-term tests lasting less than four days during severe storms or periods of high winds.
Follow the testing instructions and record the start time and date.
Place the test device at least 20 inches above the floor in a location where it will not be disturbed and where it will be away from drafts, high heat, high humidity, and exterior walls.
Leave the test kit in place for as long as the test instructions say.
Once you have finished the test, record the stop time and date, re-seal the package, and return it immediately to the lab specified on the package for analysis.
You should receive your test results within a few weeks. If you need results quickly, you should find out how long results will take and, if necessary, request expedited service.
If you hire a qualified radon tester:
In many cases, home buyers and sellers may decide to have the radon test done by a qualified radon tester who knows the proper conditions, test devices, and guidelines for obtaining a reliable radon test result.  They can also:

• evaluate the home and recommend a testing approach designed to make sure you get reliable results;
  
• explain how proper conditions can be maintained during the radon test;
  
• emphasize to occupants of a home that a reliable test result depends on their cooperation.  Interference with, or disturbance of, the test or closed-house conditions will invalidate the test result;
  
• analyze the data and report measurement results; and
  
• provide an independent test.
  

g. Interpreting Radon Test Results
The average indoor radon level is estimated to be about 1.3 pCi/L; roughly 0.4 pCi/L of radon is normally found in the outside air. The U.S. Congress has set a long-term goal that indoor radon levels be no more than outdoor levels. While this goal is not yet technologically achievable for all homes, radon levels in many homes can be reduced to 2 pCi/L or below.
Radon Test Results Reported in Two Ways
Your radon test results may be reported in either picoCuries per liter of air (pCi/L) or working levels (WL). If your test result is in pCi/L, the EPA recommends you fix your home if your radon level is 4 pCi/L or higher. If the test result is in WL, the EPA recommends you fix the home if the working level is 0.02 WL or higher.  Some states require WL results to be converted to pCi/L to minimize confusion.
Sometimes, short-term tests are less definitive about whether the home is at or above 4 pCi/L, particularly when the results are close to 4 pCi/L. For example, if the average of two short-term tests is 4.1 pCi/L, there is about a 50% chance that the year-round average is somewhat below 4 pCi/L. 
However, the EPA believes that any radon exposure carries some risk; no level of radon is safe. Even radon levels below 4 pCi/L pose some risk.  You can reduce your risk of lung cancer by lowering your radon level.
As with  other environmental pollutants, there is some uncertainty about the magnitude of radon health risks. However, we know more about radon risks than risks from most other cancer-causing substances. This is because estimates of radon risks are based on data from human studies on underground miners. Additional studies on more typical populations are underway.
Your radon measurement will give you an idea of your risk of getting lung cancer from radon. Your chances of getting lung cancer from radon depend mostly on:

• your home's radon level; 
  
• the amount of time you spend in your home; and
  
• whether you are a smoker or have ever smoked.
  

Smoking combined with radon is an especially serious health risk. If you smoke or are a former smoker, the presence of radon greatly increases your risk of lung cancer. If you stop smoking now and lower the radon level in your house, you will reduce your lung cancer risk.
Based on information contained in the National Academy of Sciences' 1998 report, The Health Effects of Exposure to Indoor Radon, your radon risk may be somewhat higher than shown, especially if you have never smoked.  It's never too late to reduce your risk to lung cancer.  Don't wait to test and fix a radon problem.  If you are a smoker, stop smoking.
Go to the Radon Risk Comparison Charts
Radon Testing Checklist
For reliable test results, follow this Radon Testing Checklist carefully.  Testing for radon is not complicated.  Improper testing may yield inaccurate results and require another test.  Disturbing or interfering with the test device or with closed-house conditions may invalidate the test results, and is actually illegal in some states.  If the seller or qualified tester cannot confirm that all items have been completed, take another test.
Before conducting a radon test:
Notify the occupants of the importance of proper testing conditions. Give the occupants written instructions or a copy of this Guide and explain the directions carefully.
Conduct the radon test for a minimum of 48 hours; some test devices have a minimum exposure time greater than 48 hours.
When doing a short-term test ranging from two to four days, it is important to maintain closed-house conditions for at least 12 hours before the beginning of the test and during the entire test period.
When doing a short-term test ranging from four to seven days, the EPA recommends that closed-house conditions be maintained.
If you conduct the test yourself, use a qualified radon measurement device and follow the laboratory's instructions.  Your state may be able to provide you with a list of do-it-yourself test devices available from qualified laboratories.
If you hire someone to do the test, hire only a qualified individual.  Some states issue photo identification (ID) cards; ask to see it.  The tester's ID number, if available, should be included or noted in the test report.
The test should include method(s) to prevent or detect interference with testing conditions, or with the testing device itself.
If the house has an active radon-reduction system, make sure the vent fan is operating properly.  If the fan is not operating properly, have it (or ask to have it) repaired and then test it.
"Closed-house conditions" mean keeping all windows closed, keeping doors closed except for normal entry and exit, and not operating fans or other machines which bring in air from outside.  Fans that are part of a radon-reduction system or small exhaust fans operating for only short periods of time may run during the test.
During a radon test:
Maintain closed-house conditions during the entire time of a short-term test, especially for tests shorter than one week.
Operate the home's heating and cooling systems normally during the test. For tests lasting less than one week, operate only air-conditioning units which re-circulate interior air.
Do not disturb the test device at any time during the test.
If a radon-reduction system is in place, make sure the system is working properly and will be in operation during the entire radon test.
After a radon test:
If you conduct the test yourself, be sure to promptly return the test device to the laboratory.  Be sure to complete the required information, including start and stop times, test location, etc.
If an elevated level is found, fix the home. Contact a qualified radon-reduction contractor about lowering the radon level.  The EPA recommends that you fix the home when the radon level is 4 pCi/L or more.
Be sure that you or the radon tester can demonstrate or provide information to ensure that the testing conditions were not violated during the testing period.


6. What should I do if the radon level is high?
a. High radon levels can be reduced.
The EPA recommends that you take action to reduce your home's indoor radon levels if your radon test result is 4 pCi/L or higher. It is better to correct a radon problem before placing your home on the market because then you will have more time to address a radon problem. 
If elevated levels are found during the real estate transaction, the buyer and seller should discuss the timing and costs of the radon reduction.  The cost of making repairs to reduce radon levels depends on how your home was built and other factors. Most homes can be fixed for about the same cost as other common home repairs, such as painting or having a new hot water heater installed. The average cost for a contractor to lower radon levels in a home can range from $800 to about $2,500.
b. How to Lower The Radon Level in Your Home
A variety of methods can be used to reduce radon in homes. Sealing cracks and other openings in the foundation is a basic part of most approaches to radon reduction. The EPA does not recommend the use of sealing alone to limit radon entry.  Sealing alone has not been shown to lower radon levels significantly or consistently. 
 In most cases, a system with a vent pipe and fan is used to reduce radon.  These "sub-slab depressurization" systems do not require major changes to your home. Similar systems can also be installed in homes with crawlspaces.  These systems prevent radon gas from entering the home from below the concrete floor and from outside the foundation.  Radon mitigation contractors may use other methods that may also work in your home. The right system depends on the design of your home and other factors. 
Radon and Home Renovations
 If you are planning any major renovations, such as converting an unfinished basement area into living space, it is especially important to test the area for radon before you begin.
If your test results indicate an elevated radon level, radon-resistant techniques can be inexpensively included as part of the renovation. Major renovations can change the level of radon in any home.  Test again after the work is completed.
You should also test your home again after it is fixed to be sure that radon levels have been reduced. If your living patterns change and you begin occupying a lower level of your home (such as a basement) you should re-test your home on that level. In addition, it is a good idea to re-test your home sometime in the future to be sure radon levels remain low.
c. Selecting a Radon-Reduction (Mitigation) Contractor
Select a qualified radon-reduction contractor to reduce the radon levels in your home.  Any mitigation measures taken or system installed in your home must conform to your state's regulations.  
The EPA recommends that the mitigation contractor review the radon measurement results before beginning any radon-reduction work.  Test again after the radon mitigation work has been completed to confirm that previous elevated levels have been reduced.  
d. What can a qualified radon-reduction contractor do for you?
A qualified radon-reduction (mitigation) contractor should be able to:

• review testing guidelines and measurement results, and determine if additional measurements are needed; 
  
• evaluate the radon problem, and provide you with a detailed, written proposal on how radon levels will be lowered; 
  
• design a radon-reduction system; 
  
• install the system according to EPA standards, or state or local codes; and
  
• make sure the finished system effectively reduces radon levels to acceptable levels.
  

Choose a radon-mitigation contractor to fix your radon problem just as you would for any other home repair.  You may want to get more than one estimate.  Ask for and check their references.  Make sure the person you hire is qualified to install a mitigation system.  Some states regulate or certify radon-mitigation services providers.
Be aware that a potential conflict of interest exists if the same person or firm performs the testing and installs the mitigation system.  Some states may require the homeowner to sign a waiver, in such cases. Contact your state radon office for more information.
e. Radon in Water
The radon in your home's indoor air can come from two sources:  the soil and your water supply.  Compared to radon entering your home through water, radon entering your home through soil is a much larger risk.  If you've tested for radon in air and have elevated radon levels, and your water comes from a private well, have your water tested.  The devices and procedures for testing your home's water supply are different from those used for measuring radon in air.
The radon in your water supply poses an inhalation risk and an ingestion risk.  Research has shown that your risk of lung cancer from breathing radon in the air is much larger than your risk of stomach cancer from swallowing water with radon in it.  Most of your risk from radon in water comes from radon released into the air when water is used for showering and other household purposes.
Radon in your home's water is not usually a problem when its source is surface water.  Radon in water is more likely when its source is ground water, e.g., a private well or a public water supply system that uses ground water.  Some public water systems treat their water to reduce radon levels before it is delivered to your home.  If you are concerned that radon may be entering your home through the water, and your water comes from a public water supply, contact your water supplier.
If you've tested your private well and have radon in your water supply, it can be treated in one of two ways.  Point-of-entry treatment can effectively remove radon from the water before it enters your home.  Point-of-entry treatment usually employs either granular activated-carbon (GAC) filters, or aeration devices.  While GAC filters usually cost less than aeration devices, filters can collect radioactivity and may require a special method of disposal.  Point-of-use treatment devices remove radon from your water at the tap, but only treat a small portion of the water you use, e.g., the water you drink.  Point-of-use devices are not effective in reducing the risk of breathing radon released into the air from all water used in the home.
Home Buyer's and Seller's Guide to Radon 
The EPA recommends:

• If you are buying a home or selling your home, have it tested for radon. 
   
• For a new home, ask if radon-resistant construction features were used and if the home has been tested. 
   
• Fix the home if the radon level is 4 picoCuries per liter (pCi/L) or higher. 
   
• Radon levels less than 4 pCi/L still pose a risk, and in many cases, may be reduced. 
   
• Take steps to prevent device interference when conducting a radon test.

The EPA estimates that radon causes thousands of cancer deaths in the U.S. each year.
 * Radon is estimated to cause about 21,000 lung cancer deaths per year.
The numbers of deaths from other causes are taken from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention's 1999-2001 National Center for Injury Prevention and Control Report and 2002 National Safety Council Reports.
Radon is a cancer-causing, radioactive gas.
You cannot see, smell or taste radon. But it still may be a problem in your home.  When you breathe air containing radon, you increase your risk of getting lung cancer.  In fact, the Surgeon General of the United States has warned that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States today.  If you smoke and your home has high radon levels, your risk of lung cancer is especially high.
You should test for radon.
Testing is the only way to find out your home's radon levels. The EPA and the Surgeon General recommend testing all homes below the third floor for radon.
You can fix a radon problem.
If you find that you have high radon levels, there are ways to fix a radon problem. Even very high levels can be reduced to acceptable levels.
If You Are Selling a Home...
The EPA recommends that you test your home before putting it on the market and, if necessary, lower your radon levels. Save the test results and all information you have about steps that were taken to fix any problems. This could be a positive selling point. 
If You Are Buying a Home...
The EPA recommends that you know what the indoor radon level is in any home you are considering buying.  Ask the seller for their radon test results.  If the home has a radon-reduction system, ask the seller for information they have about the system.
If the home has not yet been tested, you should have the house tested.
If you are having a new home built, there are features that can be incorporated into your home during construction to reduce radon levels.
These radon testing guidelines have been developed specifically to deal with the time-sensitive nature of home purchases and sales, and the potential for radon device interference.  These guidelines are slightly different from the guidelines in other EPA publications which provide radon testing and reduction information for non-real estate situations.
This guide recommends three short-term testing options for real estate transactions.  The EPA also recommends testing a home in the lowest level which is currently suitable for occupancy, since a buyer may choose to live in a lower area of the home than that used by the seller.
1. Why do you need to test for radon?
a. Radon has been found in homes all over the U.S.
Radon is a radioactive gas that has been found in homes all over the United States. It comes from the natural breakdown of uranium in soil, rock and water, and gets into the air you breathe. Radon typically moves up through the ground to the air above, and into your home through cracks and other holes in the foundation. Radon can also enter your home through well water. Your home can trap radon inside.
Any home can have a radon problem, including new and old homes, well-sealed and drafty homes, and homes with or without basements. In fact, you and your family are most likely to get your greatest radiation exposure at home. That is where you spend most of your time.
Nearly one out of every 15 homes in the United States is estimated to have an elevated radon level (4 pCi/L or more).  Elevated levels of radon gas have been found in homes in your state. 
b. The EPA and the Surgeon General recommend that you test your home.
Testing is the only way to know if you and your family are at risk from radon. The EPA and the Surgeon General recommend testing all homes below the third floor for radon.
You cannot predict radon levels based on state, local, or neighborhood radon measurements.  Do not rely on radon test results taken in other homes in the neighborhood to estimate the radon level in your home.  Homes which are next to each other can have different radon levels.  Testing is the only way to find out what your home's radon level is.
In some areas, companies may offer different types of radon service agreements.  Some agreements let you pay a one-time fee that covers both testing and radon mitigation, if needed.  

 
U.S. Surgeon General's
Health Advisory
"Indoor radon gas is the second-leading cause of lung cancer in the United States, and breathing it over prolonged periods can present a significant health risk to families all over the country.  It's important to know that this threat is completely preventable.  Radon can be detected with a simple test, and fixed through well-established venting techniques." 
 January 2005 
2. I'm selling a home.  What should I do? 
a. If your home has already been tested for radon...
If you are thinking of selling your home and you have already tested your home for radon, review the Radon Testing Checklist to make sure that the test was done correctly.  If so, provide your test results to the buyer.
No matter what kind of test you took, a potential buyer may ask for a new test, especially if:
the Radon Testing Checklist items were not met;
the last test is not recent, (e.g., within two years);
you have renovated or altered your home since you tested; or
the buyer plans to live in a lower level of the house than was tested, such as a basement suitable for occupancy but not currently lived in.
A buyer may also ask for a new test if your state or local government requires disclosure of radon information to buyers.
b. If your home has not yet been tested for radon...
Have a test taken as soon as possible. If you can, test your home before putting it on the market.  You should test in the lowest level of the home which is suitable for occupancy. This means testing in the lowest level that you currently live in or a lower level not currently used, but which a buyer could use for living space without renovations. 
The radon test result is important information about your home's radon level.  Some states require radon measurement testers to follow a specific testing protocol.  If you do the test yourself, you should carefully follow the testing protocol for your area or the EPA's Radon Testing Checklist.  If you hire a contractor to test your residence, protect yourself by hiring a qualified individual or company.
You can determine a service provider's qualifications to perform radon measurements or to mitigate your home in several ways.  Many states require radon professionals to be licensed, certified or registered.  Most states can provide you with a list of knowledgeable radon service providers doing business in your state.  In states that don't regulate radon services, ask the contractor if they hold a professional proficiency or certification credential. Such programs usually provide members with a photo-ID card which indicates their qualification(s) and its expiration date.  If in doubt, you should check with their credentialing organization.  Alternatively, ask the contractor if they've successfully completed formal training appropriate for testing or mitigation, e.g., a course in radon measurement or radon mitigation. 
3. I'm buying a home.  What should I do?

a. If the home has already been tested for radon...
If you are thinking of buying a home, you may decide to accept an earlier test result from the seller, or ask the seller for a new test to be conducted by a qualified radon tester.  Before you accept the seller's test, you should determine the results of previous testing by finding out:
who conducted the previous test (the homeowner, a radon professional, or some other person);
where in the home the previous test was taken, especially if you may plan to live in a lower level of the home.  For example, the test may have been taken on the first floor.  However, if you want to use the basement as living space, test there, too;
what, if any, structural changes, alterations, or changes in the heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) system have been made to the house since the test was done.  Such changes may affect radon levels.
If you accept the seller's test, make sure that the test followed the Radon Testing Checklist.  
If you decide that a new test is needed, discuss it with the seller as soon as possible. 
b. If the home has not yet been tested for radon...
Make sure that a radon test is done as soon as possible. Consider including provisions in the contract specifying:
where the test will be located;
who should conduct the test;
what type of test to do;
when to do the test;
how the seller and the buyer will share the test results and test costs (if necessary); and
when radon mitigation measures will be taken, and who will pay for them.

Make sure that the test is done in the lowest level of the home suitable for occupancy. This means the lowest level that you are going to use as living space which is finished or does not require renovations prior to use. A state or local radon official or qualified radon tester can help you make some of these decisions. If you decide to finish or renovate an unfinished area of the home in the future, a radon test should be taken before starting the project, and after the project is finished. Generally, it is less expensive to install a radon-reduction system before (or during) renovations rather than afterward.
4. I'm buying or building a new home.  How can I protect my family?
a. Why should I buy a radon-resistant home?
Radon-resistant techniques work.  When installed properly and completely, these simple and inexpensive passive techniques can help to reduce radon levels.  In addition, installing them at the time of construction makes it easier to reduce radon levels further if the passive techniques don't reduce radon levels below 4 pCi/L.  Radon-resistant techniques may also help to lower moisture levels and those of other soil-gases.  Radon-resistant techniques:
make upgrading easy:  Even if built to be radon-resistant, every new home should be tested for radon after occupancy.  If you have a test result of 4 pCi/L or more, a vent fan can easily be added to the passive system to make it an active system, and further reduce radon levels.
are cost-effective:  Building radon-resistant features into the house during construction is easier and cheaper than fixing a radon problem from scratch later.  Let your builder know that radon-resistant features are easy to install using common building materials.
save money:  When installed properly and completely, radon-resistant techniques can also make your home more energy-efficient and help you save on your energy costs.
In a new home, the cost to install passive radon-resistant features during construction is usually between $350 to $500.  In some areas, the cost may be as low as $100.  A qualified mitigator will charge about $300 to add a vent fan to a passive system, making it an active system and further reducing radon levels.  In an existing home, it usually costs between $800 to $2,500 to install a radon mitigation system.
b. What are radon-resistant features?
Radon-resistant features may vary for different foundations and site requirements.  If you're having a house built, you can learn about the EPA's Model Standards (and architectural drawings) and explain the techniques to your builder.  If your new house was built (or will be built) to be radon-resistant, it will include these basic elements:

1. gas-permeable layer:  This layer is placed beneath the slab or flooring system to allow the soil gas to move freely underneath the house.  In many cases, the material used is a 4-inch layer of clean gravel.  This gas-permeable layer is used only in homes with basement and slab-on-grade foundations; it is not used in homes with crawlspace foundations. 
    
2. plastic sheeting:  Plastic sheeting is placed on top of the gas-permeable layer and under the slab to help prevent the soil gas from entering the home.  In crawlspaces, the sheeting (with seams sealed) is placed directly over the crawlspace floor. 
    
3. sealing and caulking:  All below-grade openings in the foundation and walls are sealed to reduce soil-gas entry into the home. 
    
4. vent pipe:  A 3- or 4-inch PVC pipe (or other gas-tight pipe) runs from the gas-permeable layer through the house to the roof to safely vent radon and other soil gases to the outside. 
    
5. junction boxes:  An electrical junction box is included in the attic to make the wiring and installation of a vent fan easier, if, for example, you decide to activate the passive system if your test results show an elevated radon level (4 pCi/L or more).  A separate junction box is placed in the living space to power the vent-fan alarm.  An alarm is installed along with the vent fan to indicate when the vent fan is not operating properly.

5. How can I get reliable radon test results?
Radon testing is easy and the only way to find out if you have a radon problem in your home.
a. Types of Radon Devices
Since you cannot see or smell radon, special equipment is needed to detect it.  When you're ready to test your home, you can order a radon test kit by mail from a qualified radon measurement service provider or laboratory.  You can also hire a qualified radon tester, very often a home inspector, who will use the radon device(s) suitable to your situation. If you hire a home inspector, make sure you hire a qualified InterNACHI member -- specifically, an IAC2 certified air-quality professional.  The most common types of radon testing devices are listed below.  
Passive Devices
Passive radon-testing devices do not need power to function.  These include charcoal canisters, alpha-track detectors, charcoal liquid scintillation devices, and electret ion chamber detectors, which are available in hardware, drugstores, and other stores; they can also be ordered by mail or phone.  These devices are exposed to the air in the home for a specified period of time, and then sent to a laboratory for analysis.  Both short-term and long-term passive devices are generally inexpensive. Some of these devices may have features that offer more resistance to test interference or disturbance than other passive devices. Qualified radon testers may use any of these devices to measure the home's radon level.
Active Devices
Active radon-testing devices require power to function. These include continuous radon monitors and continuous working-level monitors.  They continuously measure and record the amount of radon and its decay products in the air.  Many of these devices provide a report of this information, which can reveal any unusual or abnormal swings in the radon level during the test period. A qualified tester can explain this report to you.  In addition, some of these devices are specifically designed to deter and detect test interference. Some technically advanced active devices offer anti-interference features.  Although these tests may cost more, they may ensure a more reliable result.
b. General Information for All Devices
A state or local radon official can explain the differences between devices, and recommend the ones which are most appropriate for your needs and expected testing conditions.
Make sure to use a radon measurement device from a qualified laboratory.  Certain precautions should be followed to avoid interference during the test period.  See the Radon Testing Checklist for more information on how to get a reliable test result.
Radon Test Device Placement
The EPA recommends that testing device(s) be placed in the lowest level of the home suitable for occupancy. This means testing in the lowest level (such as a basement) which a buyer could use for living space without renovations. The test should be conducted in a room to be used regularly (such as a family room, living room, play room, den or bedroom); do not test in a kitchen, bathroom, laundry room or hallway.  Usually, the buyer decides where to locate the radon test, based on their expected use of the home.  A buyer and seller should explicitly discuss and agree on the test location to avoid any misunderstanding.  Their decision should be clearly communicated to the person performing the test.
c. Preventing or Detecting Test Interference
There is a potential for test interference in real estate transactions. There are several ways to prevent or detect test interference:
Use a test device that frequently records radon or decay-product levels to detect unusual swings.
Employ a motion detector to determine whether the test device has been moved or if testing conditions have changed.
Use a proximity detector to reveal the presence of people in the room, which may correlate to possible changes in radon levels during the test.
Record the barometric pressure to identify weather conditions which may have affected the test.
Record the temperature to help assess whether doors and windows have been opened during the test. 
Apply tamper-proof seals to windows to ensure closed-house conditions.
Have the seller/occupant sign a non-interference agreement.
Home buyers and sellers should consult a qualified radon test provider about the use of these precautions.
d. Length of Time to Test
There are two general ways to test your home for radon:
Because radon levels vary from day to day and from season to season, a short-term test is less likely than a long-term test to tell you your year-round average radon level.  However, if you need results quickly, a short-term test may be used to decide whether to fix the home.
Short-Term Testing:
The quickest way to test is with short-term tests. Short-term tests remain in your home from two days to 90 days, depending on the device. There are two groups of devices which are more commonly used for short-term testing. The passive-device group includes alpha-track detectors, charcoal canisters, charcoal liquid scintillation detectors, and electret ion chambers. The active device group consists of different types of continuous monitors.
Whether you test for radon yourself, or hire a state-certified tester or a privately certified tester, all radon tests should be taken for a minimum of 48 hours. A longer period of testing is required for some devices.

Long-Term Testing
Long-term tests remain in your home for more than 90 days. Alpha-track andelectret ion chamber detectors are commonly used for this type of testing. A long-term test will give you a reading that is more likely to tell you your home's year-round average radon level than a short-term test. If time permits, long-term tests (more than 90 days) can be used to confirm initial short-term results. When long-term test results are 4 pCi/L or higher, the EPA recommends mitigating the home.
e. Doing a Short-Term Test...
If you are testing in a real estate transaction and you need results quickly, any of the following three options for short-term tests are acceptable in determining whether the home should be fixed. Any real estate test for radon should include steps to prevent or detect interference with the testing device.
When Choosing a Short-Term Testing Option...
There are trade-offs among the short-term testing options.  Two tests taken at the same time (simultaneous) would improve the precision of this radon test.  One test followed by another test (sequential) would most likely give a better representation of the seasonal average.  Both active and passive devices may have features which help to prevent test interference.  Your state radon office can help you decide which option is best.

Short-Term Testing Options
What to Do Next
Passive: 
Take two short-term tests at the same time in the same location for at least 48 hours.  
or 
Take an initial short-term test for at least 48 hours.  Immediately upon completing the first test, do a second test using an identical device in the same location as the first test.

Fix the home if the average of two tests is 4 pCi/L or more.
Fix the home if the average of the two tests is 4 pCi/L or more.
Active: 
Test the home with a continuous monitor for at least 48 hours.

Fix the home if the average radon level is 4 pCi/L or more.
f.  Using testing devices properly for reliable results.
If you do the test yourself:
When you are taking a short-term test, close windows and doors and keep them closed, except for normal entry and exit.  If you are taking a short-term test lasting less than four days, be sure to:
Close your windows and outside doors at least 12 hours before beginning the test.
Do not conduct short-term tests lasting less than four days during severe storms or periods of high winds.
Follow the testing instructions and record the start time and date.
Place the test device at least 20 inches above the floor in a location where it will not be disturbed and where it will be away from drafts, high heat, high humidity, and exterior walls.
Leave the test kit in place for as long as the test instructions say.
Once you have finished the test, record the stop time and date, re-seal the package, and return it immediately to the lab specified on the package for analysis.
You should receive your test results within a few weeks. If you need results quickly, you should find out how long results will take and, if necessary, request expedited service.
If you hire a qualified radon tester:
In many cases, home buyers and sellers may decide to have the radon test done by a qualified radon tester who knows the proper conditions, test devices, and guidelines for obtaining a reliable radon test result.  They can also:

• evaluate the home and recommend a testing approach designed to make sure you get reliable results;
  
• explain how proper conditions can be maintained during the radon test;
  
• emphasize to occupants of a home that a reliable test result depends on their cooperation.  Interference with, or disturbance of, the test or closed-house conditions will invalidate the test result;
  
• analyze the data and report measurement results; and
  
• provide an independent test.
  

g. Interpreting Radon Test Results
The average indoor radon level is estimated to be about 1.3 pCi/L; roughly 0.4 pCi/L of radon is normally found in the outside air. The U.S. Congress has set a long-term goal that indoor radon levels be no more than outdoor levels. While this goal is not yet technologically achievable for all homes, radon levels in many homes can be reduced to 2 pCi/L or below.
Radon Test Results Reported in Two Ways
Your radon test results may be reported in either picoCuries per liter of air (pCi/L) or working levels (WL). If your test result is in pCi/L, the EPA recommends you fix your home if your radon level is 4 pCi/L or higher. If the test result is in WL, the EPA recommends you fix the home if the working level is 0.02 WL or higher.  Some states require WL results to be converted to pCi/L to minimize confusion.
Sometimes, short-term tests are less definitive about whether the home is at or above 4 pCi/L, particularly when the results are close to 4 pCi/L. For example, if the average of two short-term tests is 4.1 pCi/L, there is about a 50% chance that the year-round average is somewhat below 4 pCi/L. 
However, the EPA believes that any radon exposure carries some risk; no level of radon is safe. Even radon levels below 4 pCi/L pose some risk.  You can reduce your risk of lung cancer by lowering your radon level.
As with  other environmental pollutants, there is some uncertainty about the magnitude of radon health risks. However, we know more about radon risks than risks from most other cancer-causing substances. This is because estimates of radon risks are based on data from human studies on underground miners. Additional studies on more typical populations are underway.
Your radon measurement will give you an idea of your risk of getting lung cancer from radon. Your chances of getting lung cancer from radon depend mostly on:

• your home's radon level; 
  
• the amount of time you spend in your home; and
  
• whether you are a smoker or have ever smoked.
  

Smoking combined with radon is an especially serious health risk. If you smoke or are a former smoker, the presence of radon greatly increases your risk of lung cancer. If you stop smoking now and lower the radon level in your house, you will reduce your lung cancer risk.
Based on information contained in the National Academy of Sciences' 1998 report, The Health Effects of Exposure to Indoor Radon, your radon risk may be somewhat higher than shown, especially if you have never smoked.  It's never too late to reduce your risk to lung cancer.  Don't wait to test and fix a radon problem.  If you are a smoker, stop smoking.
Go to the Radon Risk Comparison Charts
Radon Testing Checklist
For reliable test results, follow this Radon Testing Checklist carefully.  Testing for radon is not complicated.  Improper testing may yield inaccurate results and require another test.  Disturbing or interfering with the test device or with closed-house conditions may invalidate the test results, and is actually illegal in some states.  If the seller or qualified tester cannot confirm that all items have been completed, take another test.
Before conducting a radon test:
Notify the occupants of the importance of proper testing conditions. Give the occupants written instructions or a copy of this Guide and explain the directions carefully.
Conduct the radon test for a minimum of 48 hours; some test devices have a minimum exposure time greater than 48 hours.
When doing a short-term test ranging from two to four days, it is important to maintain closed-house conditions for at least 12 hours before the beginning of the test and during the entire test period.
When doing a short-term test ranging from four to seven days, the EPA recommends that closed-house conditions be maintained.
If you conduct the test yourself, use a qualified radon measurement device and follow the laboratory's instructions.  Your state may be able to provide you with a list of do-it-yourself test devices available from qualified laboratories.
If you hire someone to do the test, hire only a qualified individual.  Some states issue photo identification (ID) cards; ask to see it.  The tester's ID number, if available, should be included or noted in the test report.
The test should include method(s) to prevent or detect interference with testing conditions, or with the testing device itself.
If the house has an active radon-reduction system, make sure the vent fan is operating properly.  If the fan is not operating properly, have it (or ask to have it) repaired and then test it.
"Closed-house conditions" mean keeping all windows closed, keeping doors closed except for normal entry and exit, and not operating fans or other machines which bring in air from outside.  Fans that are part of a radon-reduction system or small exhaust fans operating for only short periods of time may run during the test.
During a radon test:
Maintain closed-house conditions during the entire time of a short-term test, especially for tests shorter than one week.
Operate the home's heating and cooling systems normally during the test. For tests lasting less than one week, operate only air-conditioning units which re-circulate interior air.
Do not disturb the test device at any time during the test.
If a radon-reduction system is in place, make sure the system is working properly and will be in operation during the entire radon test.
After a radon test:
If you conduct the test yourself, be sure to promptly return the test device to the laboratory.  Be sure to complete the required information, including start and stop times, test location, etc.
If an elevated level is found, fix the home. Contact a qualified radon-reduction contractor about lowering the radon level.  The EPA recommends that you fix the home when the radon level is 4 pCi/L or more.
Be sure that you or the radon tester can demonstrate or provide information to ensure that the testing conditions were not violated during the testing period.


6. What should I do if the radon level is high?
a. High radon levels can be reduced.
The EPA recommends that you take action to reduce your home's indoor radon levels if your radon test result is 4 pCi/L or higher. It is better to correct a radon problem before placing your home on the market because then you will have more time to address a radon problem. 
If elevated levels are found during the real estate transaction, the buyer and seller should discuss the timing and costs of the radon reduction.  The cost of making repairs to reduce radon levels depends on how your home was built and other factors. Most homes can be fixed for about the same cost as other common home repairs, such as painting or having a new hot water heater installed. The average cost for a contractor to lower radon levels in a home can range from $800 to about $2,500.
b. How to Lower The Radon Level in Your Home
A variety of methods can be used to reduce radon in homes. Sealing cracks and other openings in the foundation is a basic part of most approaches to radon reduction. The EPA does not recommend the use of sealing alone to limit radon entry.  Sealing alone has not been shown to lower radon levels significantly or consistently. 
 In most cases, a system with a vent pipe and fan is used to reduce radon.  These "sub-slab depressurization" systems do not require major changes to your home. Similar systems can also be installed in homes with crawlspaces.  These systems prevent radon gas from entering the home from below the concrete floor and from outside the foundation.  Radon mitigation contractors may use other methods that may also work in your home. The right system depends on the design of your home and other factors. 
Radon and Home Renovations
 If you are planning any major renovations, such as converting an unfinished basement area into living space, it is especially important to test the area for radon before you begin.
If your test results indicate an elevated radon level, radon-resistant techniques can be inexpensively included as part of the renovation. Major renovations can change the level of radon in any home.  Test again after the work is completed.
You should also test your home again after it is fixed to be sure that radon levels have been reduced. If your living patterns change and you begin occupying a lower level of your home (such as a basement) you should re-test your home on that level. In addition, it is a good idea to re-test your home sometime in the future to be sure radon levels remain low.
c. Selecting a Radon-Reduction (Mitigation) Contractor
Select a qualified radon-reduction contractor to reduce the radon levels in your home.  Any mitigation measures taken or system installed in your home must conform to your state's regulations.  
The EPA recommends that the mitigation contractor review the radon measurement results before beginning any radon-reduction work.  Test again after the radon mitigation work has been completed to confirm that previous elevated levels have been reduced.  
d. What can a qualified radon-reduction contractor do for you?
A qualified radon-reduction (mitigation) contractor should be able to:

• review testing guidelines and measurement results, and determine if additional measurements are needed; 
  
• evaluate the radon problem, and provide you with a detailed, written proposal on how radon levels will be lowered; 
  
• design a radon-reduction system; 
  
• install the system according to EPA standards, or state or local codes; and
  
• make sure the finished system effectively reduces radon levels to acceptable levels.
  

Choose a radon-mitigation contractor to fix your radon problem just as you would for any other home repair.  You may want to get more than one estimate.  Ask for and check their references.  Make sure the person you hire is qualified to install a mitigation system.  Some states regulate or certify radon-mitigation services providers.
Be aware that a potential conflict of interest exists if the same person or firm performs the testing and installs the mitigation system.  Some states may require the homeowner to sign a waiver, in such cases. Contact your state radon office for more information.
e. Radon in Water
The radon in your home's indoor air can come from two sources:  the soil and your water supply.  Compared to radon entering your home through water, radon entering your home through soil is a much larger risk.  If you've tested for radon in air and have elevated radon levels, and your water comes from a private well, have your water tested.  The devices and procedures for testing your home's water supply are different from those used for measuring radon in air.
The radon in your water supply poses an inhalation risk and an ingestion risk.  Research has shown that your risk of lung cancer from breathing radon in the air is much larger than your risk of stomach cancer from swallowing water with radon in it.  Most of your risk from radon in water comes from radon released into the air when water is used for showering and other household purposes.
Radon in your home's water is not usually a problem when its source is surface water.  Radon in water is more likely when its source is ground water, e.g., a private well or a public water supply system that uses ground water.  Some public water systems treat their water to reduce radon levels before it is delivered to your home.  If you are concerned that radon may be entering your home through the water, and your water comes from a public water supply, contact your water supplier.
If you've tested your private well and have radon in your water supply, it can be treated in one of two ways.  Point-of-entry treatment can effectively remove radon from the water before it enters your home.  Point-of-entry treatment usually employs either granular activated-carbon (GAC) filters, or aeration devices.  While GAC filters usually cost less than aeration devices, filters can collect radioactivity and may require a special method of disposal.  Point-of-use treatment devices remove radon from your water at the tap, but only treat a small portion of the water you use, e.g., the water you drink.  Point-of-use devices are not effective in reducing the risk of breathing radon released into the air from all water used in the home.

Vinyl siding is the form of exterior cladding that home inspectors are likely to encounter most frequently.  Homeowners, remodeling contractors and builders often choose vinyl siding as an alternative to wood and aluminum because it is attractive, durable, easy to maintain and cost-effective.  Vinyl siding is often textured to resemble wood or stone in a variety of colors. 

Although it is a very popular and well-regarded product, homeowners may want to be aware of some of the downsides of using vinyl siding if they are thinking about remodeling or building a new home.  Wolf Home Inspectors will likely examine many homes with vinyl siding and can benefit from knowing more about this most common type of exterior cladding, including what to look for during an inspection.
 
History and Manufacturing 

Vinyl siding came into use as an exterior cladding in the late 1950s and has grown steadily in popularity since its introduction, covering billions of square feet of exterior walls.  Vinyl siding is made with PVC (polyvinyl chloride).  In the beginning, vinyl siding was manufactured only by the process of mono-extrusion, whereby the elements of the PVC compound formed a single-layer product.  Initial methods of manufacturing lead to difficulty producing a consistently high-quality product, but they have since been corrected.  Vinyl siding is now typically manufactured using a co-extrusion process, which creates a product with two layers.  The outer layer contains pigment which adds color to the siding and resists breakdown from UV light.  The under-layer is its substrate.  Vinyl siding produced today is of a reliably higher quality than that produced years ago, which has led to it becoming the most common choice for exterior cladding. 






​Pros and Cons

Vinyl siding can provide advantages over other exterior cladding materials, but there are also some concerns to be aware of.  Here are some pros and cons related to its specific attributes and characteristics.

Advantages:

• Vinyl siding is very durable.
• It will last a long time when properly maintained.
• It will not fade. 
• It will not rust.
• It does not dent easily.
• Vinyl siding provides a supplemental rain screen.
• It is designated as a water-resistant barrier.  Properly installed vinyl siding is designed to let the material underneath it breathe.
• As long as the siding has been properly installed, maintenance is very simple, limited mostly to spray-washing once a year or whenever necessary. 

Disadvantages:

• In extreme weather conditions, vinyl siding is as susceptible to damage as any other siding. 
  • In severe cold, vinyl siding can become brittle and more susceptible to cracking if something impacts it. 
  • Extreme heat can also cause vinyl to melt or distort.  There have been cases reported of extremely hot reflections from nearby windows causing warping and melting.
• Vinyl siding is not a form of insulation.  It is simply an exterior cladding, but some salespeople misrepresent this fact with claims that new siding will aid energy efficiency.  This is only applicable for siding that includes special insulating inserts or backings, but not to the vinyl siding itself. 
• Vinyl siding is not a watertight covering.  
• If a fire occurs, vinyl siding will melt or burn and may release toxic chemicals, making the situation more dangerous for occupants.  Some groups believe PVC itself can have a negative impact on health and there is much debate about these claims.   
• Problems can occur if incorrect installation is allowing water to become trapped behind the siding, which would need to be addressed before water damage becomes an issue.
• In areas with a high concentration of historic buildings, the use of vinyl siding may be a controversial choice because of concerns regarding how its aesthetics may impact historical preservation and property values. 

Evidence has been presented that the production of vinyl may be hazardous to those in close proximity to production facilities. 
Recycling of vinyl siding is currently limited to unused scraps and pieces that have never been installed.

 Tips for Inspecting Vinyl Siding

Some of these details may be observed while inspecting the exterior of a house, depending on whether the vinyl siding has already been installed or is in the process of being installed:

• Ripples in the siding can result from stapling or nailing through the face of the siding, which is an incorrect installation.
• Caulk is not necessary in spots where panels meet the receiver of inside corners, outside corners or J-trim.  Caulk is also not needed at overlap joints.
• Normal expansion and retraction of the vinyl requires at least ¼-inch of clearance at all openings and stops.
• Distortion and buckling of panels may be caused by fasteners that were not driven straight and level.
• Correct installation requires that fastener heads not be driven too tightly against the siding’s nail hem, but should leave about 1/32-inch of clearance between the fastener head and siding panel.  This is about equal to the thickness of a dime.
• For a proper hold, fasteners are best driven at least ¾-inch into a surface meant to accept nails, such as substantial sheathing or furring strips.  A ½-inch gap should be left between nailing strips where two pieces overlap.
• Fasteners installed properly will be in the center of the nailing slot.
• Properly installed panels and accessories should move freely from side to side.
• Since wind-driven rain can easily get into the space behind the siding, building paper or housewrap should be installed behind the siding to protect against water damage.  Drainage holes or slots in horizontal vinyl siding allow water behind the siding to drain.
• It is best for lap joints to be staggered and not lined up vertically.
• When properly installed, surface-mounted fixtures, such as exterior lights, should not be mounted directly to vinyl siding.  They should be mounted on mounting blocks instead, since fasteners penetrating the siding will restrict the siding’s natural expansion and contraction, causing problems.
• Corrosion-resistant fasteners are always best for any outdoor installation.
• When properly installed, vinyl siding will terminate in J-molding around windows and doors.

 
While vinyl siding has become extremely popular due to the advantages it provides, in some instances, such as when historic preservation is of primary concern, it may not be the best choice.  Wolf Home Inspectors who know more about vinyl siding will be well-prepared to answer clients’ questions.  In general, proper installation is the main concern with this type of exterior cladding.  When correctly installed and maintained, vinyl siding is attractive and durable, and can last for many years.

"Aging in place" describes a senior citizen's ability to live independently in their home for as long as possible. Those who age in place will not have to move from their present residence to secure necessary support services in response to their changing needs.The Baby Boomers
As "baby boomers" age (the demographic of people born between 1946 and 1964), the 60+ population has spiked. In 2022, there were nearly 58 million people in the U.S. over the age of 65.  As of 2023, there were 1.3 million people residing in nursing homes.  Research shows that baby boomers’ expectations of how they will receive care differ from that of their parents’ generation.  Overwhelmingly, they will seek care in their own homes and will be less likely to move into congregate living settings.
Why do many senior citizens prefer to age in place? 
Nursing homes, to many, represent a loss of freedom and a reduced quality of life. Here are a few good reasons why these fears are justified:

• Between 2013 and 2017, the National Institutes of Health identified nearly half a million complaints containing nearly a million separate allegations of mismanagement, neglect, and/or abuse, resulting in the issuance of over 150,000 deficiency citations by the government agency. These complaints involve the abuse or neglect of patients, such as infected bedsores, medication mix-ups, poor nutrition, and other forms of neglect.
• A significant percentage of nursing homes were cited for deficiencies that caused immediate jeopardy or actual harm to patients, including physical and/or sexual abuse by nursing home staff.
• Many cases have been exposed in which nursing homes billed Medicare and Medicaid for services that were not provided.
  
  

Aging-in-Place Inspections  
Inspectors may recommend corrections and adaptations to the home to improve maneuverability, accessibility, and safety for elderly occupants and even non-elderly residents whose mobility is compromised.
Some such alterations and recommendations for a home include the following.

• Appliances:
  
  • microwave oven mounted in the wall or on the counter;
  • refrigerator and freezer side by side;
  • side-swing or wall oven;
  • controls that are easy to read;
  • raised washing machine and dryer;
  • front-loading washing machine;
  • raised dishwasher with push-button controls;
  • stove having an electric cooktop, with level burners for safely transferring between the burners; front controls and downdraft feature to pull heat away from the user; a light to indicate when surface is hot; and 
  • replace old stoves with induction cooktops to help prevent burns.
    
    
• Bathroom:
  
  • fold-down seat installed in the shower;
  • adjustable showerheads with 6-foot hose;
  • light in the shower stall;
  • wall support and provision for adjustable and/or varied-height counters and removable base cabinets;
  • contrasting color edge border at countertops;
  • at least one wheelchair-maneuverable bath on main level;
  • bracing in walls around tub, shower, shower seat and toilet for installation of grab bars;
  • if stand-up shower is used in main bath, it is curbless and wide;
  • low bathtub;
  • toilet higher than standard toilet, or height-adjustable;
  • design of the toilet paper holder allows rolls to be changed with one hand;
  • wall-hung sink with knee space and panel to protect user from pipes; and
  • slip-resistant flooring in bathroom and shower.
    
    
• Counters:
  
  • base cabinet with roll-out trays;
  • pull-down shelving;
  • wall support, and provision for adjustable and/or varied-height counters and removable base cabinets;
  • upper wall cabinetry lower than conventional height;
  • accented stripes on edge of countertops to provide visual orientation to the workspace;
  • counter space for dish landing adjacent to or opposite all appliances;
  • glass-front cabinet doors; and
  • open shelving for easy access to frequently used items.
    
    
• Exterior:
  
  • low-maintenance exterior (vinyl, brick, etc); and 
  • low-maintenance shrubs and plants.
    
    
• Entry:
  
  • sensor light at exterior no-step entry focusing on the front-door lock;
  • non-slip flooring in foyer;
  • accessible path of travel to the home;
  • at least one no-step entry with a cover;
  • entry door sidelight or high/low peep hole viewer; sidelight should provide both privacy and safety;
  • doorbell in accessible location; and
  • a surface on which to place packages while opening door.
    
    
• Electrical, Lighting, Safety and Security:
  
  • install new smoke and CO detectors;
  • install automated lighting, an emergency alert system, or a video-monitoring system;
  • easy-to-see and read thermostats;
  • light switches by each entrance to halls and rooms;
  • light receptacles with at least two bulbs in vital places (exits, bathroom);
  • light switches, thermostats and other environmental controls placed in accessible locations no higher than 48 inches from floor;
  • move electrical cords out of the flow of traffic;
  • replace standard light switches with rocker or touch-light switches; and
  • pre-programmed thermostats.

• Faucets:

• • thermostatic or anti-scald controls;
  • lever handles or pedal-controlled; and
  • pressure-balanced faucets.
• Flooring:
  
  • if carpeted, use low-density with firm pad;
  • smooth, non-glare, slip-resistant surfaces, interior and exterior; and
  • color and texture contrast to indicate change in surface levels.
    
    
• Hallways:
  
  • wide;
  • well-lit; and
  • fasten down rugs and floor runners, and remove any that are not necessary.
    
    
• Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning:
  
  • install energy-efficient units;
  • HVAC should be designed so filters are easily accessible; and 
  • windows that can be opened for cross-ventilation and fresh air.
    
    
• Miscellaneous:
  
  • 30-inch by 48-inch clear space at appliances, or 60-inch diameter clear space for turns;
  • multi-level work areas to accommodate cooks of different heights;
  • loop handles for easy grip and pull;
  • pull-out spray faucet;
  • levered handles;
  • in multi-story homes, laundry chute or laundry facilities in master bedroom;
  • open under-counter seated work areas; and
  • placement of task lighting in appropriate work areas.
    
    
• Overall Floor Plan:
  
  • main living on a single story, including full bath;
  • 5-foot by 5-foot clear turn space in living area, kitchen, a bedroom and a bathroom; and
  • no steps between rooms on a single level.
    
    
• Reduced Maintenance and Convenience Features:
  
  • easy-to-clean surfaces;
  • built-in recycling system;
  • video phones;
  • central vacuum;
  • built-in pet feeding system; and
  • intercom system.
    
    
• Stairways, Lifts and Elevators:
  
  • adequate hand rails on both sides of stairway;
  • residential elevator or lift; and
  • increased visibility of stairs through contrast strip on top and bottom stairs, and color contrast between treads and risers on stairs with use of lighting.
    
    
• Storage:
  
  • lighting in closets;
  • adjustable closet rods and shelves; and
  • easy-open doors that do not obstruct access.
    
    
• Windows:
  
  • plenty of windows for natural light;
  • low-maintenance exterior and interior finishes;
  • lowered windows, or taller windows with lower sill height; and
  • easy-to-operate hardware.
  
  

Advice for those who wish to age in place:

• Talk with family members about your long-term living preferences. Do you want to downsize to a smaller single-family home, or do you plan to stay put in your traditional family home?
• Take a look at your finances and retirement funds. With your current savings and assets, will you be able to pay for home maintenance? Consider starting a separate retirement savings account strictly for home maintenance.
• Remodel your home before your mobility becomes limited. As you age, changes in mobility, hearing, vision and overall health and flexibility will affect how easily you function in your home. Consider making your home “age-friendly” as a phased-in and budgeted home improvement, rather than waiting until you need many modifications at a time due to a health crisis.
• If you decide before you retire that you want to live in your current home through the remainder of life, consider paying for “big ticket – long life” home projects while you still have a healthy income. Such items may include having the roof assessed or replaced, replacing and upgrading the water heater or cooling unit, completing termite inspections and treatment, having a septic tank inspection and replacement, as needed, and purchasing a riding lawn mower.
• Most seniors leave their homes due to functional and mobility limitations that result from medical crises, and an inability to pay for support to stay with them in their home. Effectively managing health risks and maintaining a healthy lifestyle can help you stay strong, age well, and live long at your own home.

In summary, aging in place is a way by which senior citizens can avoid being dependent on others due to declining health and mobility.

Why all real estate agents should only recommend InterNACHI® inspectors
InterNACHI® is so sure of its inspectors that it will indemnify any licensed real estate agent in an amount up to $10,000 if a third party successfully sues the agent for negligent referral of an InterNACHI® inspector.  This protection is offered at no cost to agents who register.  

This is how the program works:

1. The agent must be a licensed real estate agent or broker in the relevant jurisdiction at the time of the referral.
2. The referral must be made to an inspector who is a member in good standing of InterNACHI® at the time of the referral.
3. The program is only available for residential inspections; it does not apply to inspections of commercial properties.
4. The InterNACHI® member must have a written inspection agreement with the customer at the time of the inspection.
5. The agent is not required to refer potential customers only to InterNACHI® inspectors.  The agent may provide the names of more than one inspector, but the program will still apply if the potential customer selects an InterNACHI® inspector as a result of the referral and the agent otherwise qualifies.
6. The agent must admit to having made the referral.
7. The agent must register with InterNACHI® prior to making the referral. After registering, the agent will obtain an InterNACHI® login which confirms that he or she has registered.
8. By registering for the program, the agent (on behalf of himself, his heirs, successors and assigns, and on behalf of the company that employs the agent) represents and agrees as follows:
   
   
   a.  Agent is authorized by agent’s employer to register for the program.
   b.  The exclusive venue for any litigation arising against InterNACHI® or its officers as a result of the agent’s participation in the program shall be in the County or District Court of Boulder County, Colorado. Agent and agent’s employer must submit to the exercise of personal jurisdiction over them by those courts.  In any such action, the parties waive trial by jury.  If InterNACHI® prevails in any such action, the agent shall pay InterNACHI®’s attorney’s fees, expert witness fees, and costs.  Colorado law will govern any such action. 
   c.  There are no other promises or representations of InterNACHI® that are not set forth here. 
   d.  The terms of this program cannot be modified except in a written document signed by an authorized officer of InterNACHI®.
9. The agent must promptly notify InterNACHI® in writing when he or she first becomes aware that a person is claiming that the agent was negligent in referring the person to an InterNACHI® inspector.  The notice must include the name of the claimant and a summary of the relevant facts.  The agent must send the notice by certified mail to InterNACHI®, 1750 30th Street, Suite 301, Boulder, CO  80301.
10. The agent must provide InterNACHI® with a certified copy of the judgment entered against the agent, which must be the result of a lawsuit against the agent for negligent referral to an InterNACHI® inspector.
11. Upon receiving a certified copy of the judgment and satisfactory proof that the judgment resulted from an action against the agent for negligent referral to an InterNACHI® inspector, InterNACHI® will pay the agent the amount of the judgment up to $10,000, but only to the extent that the agent does not have insurance coverage to pay the judgment.  The agent must provide all relevant insurance and other information to InterNACHI® sufficient for InterNACHI® to determine that the agent qualifies for payment. 
12. The limit is $10,000 per incident.  If the plaintiff sues and prevails against more than one agent and/or a company that employs or has a relationship with an agent, InterNACHI® will pay only once.  If a court enters judgment against more than one agent or against an agent and the agent’s employer, InterNACHI® will pay a prorated share of the $10,000 to each such person or entity.
13. The agent must use the money to pay the judgment.

 
REGISTER NOW
for InterNACHI's Free Negligent Referral Protection Plan 
 
...and never refer your clients to anyone less than an InterNACHI inspector. 
​

by Nick Gromicko, CMI® 

Solar energy offers considerable advantages over conventional energy systems by nullifying flaws in those systems long considered to be unchangeable. Solar power for home energy production has its flaws, too, which are outlined in another article, but they're dwarfed by the advantages listed below. 

The following are advantages of solar energy:

• Raw materials are renewable and unlimited. The amount of available solar energy is staggering -- roughly 10,000 times that currently required by humans -- and it’s constantly replaced. A mere 0.02% of incoming sunlight, if captured correctly, would be sufficient to replace every other fuel source currently used. Granted, the Earth does need much of this solar energy to drive its weather, so let’s look only at the unused portion of sunlight that is reflected back into space, known as the albedo. Earth’s average albedo is around 30%, meaning that roughly 52 petawatts of energy is reflected by the Earth and lost into space every year. Compare this number with global energy-consumption statistics.  Annually, the energy lost to space is the combined equivalent of 400 hurricanes, 1 million Hoover Dams, Great Britain's energy requirement for 250,000 years, worldwide oil, gas and coal production for 387 years, 75 million cars, and 50 million 747s running perpetually for one year (not to mention 1 million fictional DeLorean time machines!). 

​

• Solar power is low-emission. Solar panels produce no pollution, although they impose environmental costs through manufacture and construction. These environmental tolls are negligible, however, when compared with the damage inflicted by conventional energy sources:  the burning of fossil fuels releases roughly 21.3 billion metric tons of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere annually. 

• Solar power is suitable for remote areas that are not connected to energy grids. It may come as a surprise to city-dwellers but, according to Home Power Magazine, as of 2006, 180,000 houses in the United States were off-grid, and that figure is likely considerably higher today. California, Colorado, Maine, Oregon, Vermont and Washington have long been refuges for such energy rebels, though people live off the grid in every state. While many of these people shun the grid on principle, owing to politics and environmental concerns, few of the world’s 1.8 billion off-the-gridders have any choice in the matter. Solar energy can drastically improve the quality of life for millions of people who live in the dark, especially in places such as Sub-Saharan Africa, where as many as 90% of the rural population lacks access to electricity. People in these areas must rely on fuel-based lighting, which inflicts significant social and environmental costs, from jeopardized health through contamination of indoor air, to limited overall productivity.   
  
  
• Solar power provides green jobs. Production of solar panels for domestic use is becoming a growing source of employment in research, manufacture, sales and installation.
  
  
• Solar panels contain no moving parts and thus produce no noise. Wind turbines, by contrast, require noisy gearboxes and blades.
  
  
• In the long run, solar power is economical. Solar panels and installation involve high initial expenses, but this cost is soon offset by savings on energy bills.  Eventually, they may even produce a profit on their use.
  
  
• Solar power takes advantage of net metering, which is the practice of crediting homeowners for electricity they produce and return to the power grid. As part of the Energy Policy Act of 2005, public electric utilities are required to make available, upon request, net metering to their customers. This practice offers an advantage for homeowners who use solar panels (or wind turbines or fuel cells) that may, at times, produce more energy than their homes require. If net metering is not an option, excess energy may be stored in batteries.
  
  
• Solar power can mean government tax credits. U.S. federal subsidies credit up to 30% of system costs, and each state offers its own incentives. California, blessed with abundant sunshine and plagued by high electric rates and an over-taxed grid, was the first state to offer generous renewable-energy incentives for homes and businesses.
  
  
• Solar power is reliable. Many homeowners favor solar energy because it is virtually immune to potential failings of utility companies, mainly in the form of political or economic turmoil, terrorism, natural disasters, or brownouts due to overuse. The Northeast Blackout of 2003 unplugged 55 million people across two countries, while rolling blackouts are a part of regular life in some South Asian countries, and occasionally in California and Texas.
  
  
• Solar power conserves foreign energy expenditures. In many countries, a large percentage of earnings is used to pay for imported oil for power generation. The United States alone spends $13 million per hour on oil, much of which comes from Persian Gulf nations. As oil supplies dwindle and prices rise in this politically unstable region, these problems continue to catalyze the expansion of solar power and other alternative-energy systems.

In summary, solar energy offers advantages to conventional fossil fuels and other renewable energy systems.

 
 
 

by Nick Gromicko, CMI®
 
Purchasing foreclosed homes in desirable areas at below-market values can be a sound investment strategy. Appreciation on their original prices may be tax-free.  Buying foreclosed rental properties can provide positive cash flow, as well as valuable tax deductions. On the other hand, buying a foreclosure involves homework, patience, and a certain amount of luck. For those wishing to get a bargain house through the foreclosure process, it’s best to learn the basics.
 
​Four Ways to Buy a Foreclosed Home

• A presale is when the prospective buyer negotiates with the current owner before the house is foreclosed upon. Presale discounts can be considerable, but communicating and reasoning with the owner isn’t always easy; they might have legal problems, lost their phone service or electricity, or greet you with suspicion, having already been hounded and threatened by creditors. And after time and energy have been invested, the deal can fall through if the owner comes up with the money to repay their debt, or for any number of unexpected reasons. With persistence, however, the seasoned real estate investor can profit from presales. To find out about presales, you can try one of the following avenues:
  • Ask your local county court how to search new notices of default.
  • Find out if the County Recorder has data available online.
  • Look in the "legal notices" section of the newspaper for properties that are coming up for sale at public auction. Take note of the address, the property owner’s name, the tax ID, and whatever other information is contained in the ad.
• A foreclosed home may be sold at a public auction, in which buyers can expect a discount of 10% to 25% of market value. Interested bidders are generally required to show proof of financing, and must have a minimum cash deposit before they are qualified to bid. It might be impossible to gain entry to inspect the interior, too, which makes this type of purchase risky. The local building department may have permit records that can clue you in to the building’s layout and appearance.
• A real estate-owned (REO) sale is a transaction where a foreclosed house is purchased directly from the bank. These properties typically wound up in the bank’s portfolio after failing to sell at auction. REO investments are relatively safe, as there are no tenants to evict or hidden liens and, unlike properties sold at public auction, buyers can usually receive a mortgage to pay for them. And purchasers might even get an unused house; the slow economy has left many builders at the end of their construction-loan periods without finding buyers for the homes, in which case the bank will foreclose on the brand new homes. Unfortunately, REOs are usually offered at near-market prices to recoup the costs of property taxes, maintenance and legal fees. To find REOs, try the following:
  • Check lenders’ websites, as they may have a list of their REOs, along with contact information for the appropriate real estate agent.
  • Call lenders and ask to speak to someone who handles their foreclosures.
  • Check newspapers.
• The Department of Housing and Urban Development has tens of thousands of HUD homes whose previous owners defaulted on federally issued loans. After a period during which local governments gain exclusive buying privileges, they become available to individual buyers who pledge to live in the property. After another 10 days, investors may bid on the property. It’s difficult to make a profit on these houses, as HUD releases them at near-market values.

​Tips for Foreclosure Purchases

• Invest time in research and preparation. Those new to the field should spend some time learning the variables of foreclosure investing before making any purchases.
• Budget carefully to prepare for the unexpected. The house may require unforeseen repairs, such as a leaky roof or unstable deck. The price tag of the home itself is often just the first of a series of fees. What if you planned on rental cash flow to cover the mortgage, but you can’t find a tenant?
• Avoid buying a foreclosure sight-unseen. Try to see the house yourself before buying it, or hire someone to evaluate at it in your absence. Distant investors are buying up properties unseen in bulk, and they’re often unpleasantly surprised at how much they’ve been misled.
• Evaluate the neighborhood. If the foreclosure is rife with problems, but it’s in a desirable area with high property resale values, it may still be worth it to make a low offer. An area with several foreclosures or a high crime rate can undermine an otherwise good deal, however.
• Consider how long the house has been vacant. Building damage – and the costs required to make the house livable - generally increases with the time that has lapsed since the last tenant vacated. Pests are a particular issue in houses that have been empty for a long time, and plumbing defects and leaks increase in likelihood in such homes, as well.
• Examine the landscaping. Left unchecked, trees can send their roots into the foundation, and vines can creep into the windows.
• Has the house been professionally inspected by an InterNACHI inspector? Foreclosures can be notorious for damage suffered at the hands of past tenants, through both inadvertent and intentional vandalism and theft.

In summary, there are a number of ways to go about buying a foreclosed home, and buyers should exercise patience, persistence and careful planning before buying foreclosed properties.