Vinyl siding is the form of exterior cladding that home inspectors are likely to encounter most frequently.  Homeowners, remodeling contractors and builders often choose vinyl siding as an alternative to wood and aluminum because it is attractive, durable, easy to maintain and cost-effective.  Vinyl siding is often textured to resemble wood or stone in a variety of colors. 

Although it is a very popular and well-regarded product, homeowners may want to be aware of some of the downsides of using vinyl siding if they are thinking about remodeling or building a new home.  Wolf Home Inspectors will likely examine many homes with vinyl siding and can benefit from knowing more about this most common type of exterior cladding, including what to look for during an inspection.
 
History and Manufacturing 

Vinyl siding came into use as an exterior cladding in the late 1950s and has grown steadily in popularity since its introduction, covering billions of square feet of exterior walls.  Vinyl siding is made with PVC (polyvinyl chloride).  In the beginning, vinyl siding was manufactured only by the process of mono-extrusion, whereby the elements of the PVC compound formed a single-layer product.  Initial methods of manufacturing lead to difficulty producing a consistently high-quality product, but they have since been corrected.  Vinyl siding is now typically manufactured using a co-extrusion process, which creates a product with two layers.  The outer layer contains pigment which adds color to the siding and resists breakdown from UV light.  The under-layer is its substrate.  Vinyl siding produced today is of a reliably higher quality than that produced years ago, which has led to it becoming the most common choice for exterior cladding. 






​Pros and Cons

Vinyl siding can provide advantages over other exterior cladding materials, but there are also some concerns to be aware of.  Here are some pros and cons related to its specific attributes and characteristics.

Advantages:

• Vinyl siding is very durable.
• It will last a long time when properly maintained.
• It will not fade. 
• It will not rust.
• It does not dent easily.
• Vinyl siding provides a supplemental rain screen.
• It is designated as a water-resistant barrier.  Properly installed vinyl siding is designed to let the material underneath it breathe.
• As long as the siding has been properly installed, maintenance is very simple, limited mostly to spray-washing once a year or whenever necessary. 

Disadvantages:

• In extreme weather conditions, vinyl siding is as susceptible to damage as any other siding. 
  • In severe cold, vinyl siding can become brittle and more susceptible to cracking if something impacts it. 
  • Extreme heat can also cause vinyl to melt or distort.  There have been cases reported of extremely hot reflections from nearby windows causing warping and melting.
• Vinyl siding is not a form of insulation.  It is simply an exterior cladding, but some salespeople misrepresent this fact with claims that new siding will aid energy efficiency.  This is only applicable for siding that includes special insulating inserts or backings, but not to the vinyl siding itself. 
• Vinyl siding is not a watertight covering.  
• If a fire occurs, vinyl siding will melt or burn and may release toxic chemicals, making the situation more dangerous for occupants.  Some groups believe PVC itself can have a negative impact on health and there is much debate about these claims.   
• Problems can occur if incorrect installation is allowing water to become trapped behind the siding, which would need to be addressed before water damage becomes an issue.
• In areas with a high concentration of historic buildings, the use of vinyl siding may be a controversial choice because of concerns regarding how its aesthetics may impact historical preservation and property values. 

Evidence has been presented that the production of vinyl may be hazardous to those in close proximity to production facilities. 
Recycling of vinyl siding is currently limited to unused scraps and pieces that have never been installed.

 Tips for Inspecting Vinyl Siding

Some of these details may be observed while inspecting the exterior of a house, depending on whether the vinyl siding has already been installed or is in the process of being installed:

• Ripples in the siding can result from stapling or nailing through the face of the siding, which is an incorrect installation.
• Caulk is not necessary in spots where panels meet the receiver of inside corners, outside corners or J-trim.  Caulk is also not needed at overlap joints.
• Normal expansion and retraction of the vinyl requires at least ¼-inch of clearance at all openings and stops.
• Distortion and buckling of panels may be caused by fasteners that were not driven straight and level.
• Correct installation requires that fastener heads not be driven too tightly against the siding’s nail hem, but should leave about 1/32-inch of clearance between the fastener head and siding panel.  This is about equal to the thickness of a dime.
• For a proper hold, fasteners are best driven at least ¾-inch into a surface meant to accept nails, such as substantial sheathing or furring strips.  A ½-inch gap should be left between nailing strips where two pieces overlap.
• Fasteners installed properly will be in the center of the nailing slot.
• Properly installed panels and accessories should move freely from side to side.
• Since wind-driven rain can easily get into the space behind the siding, building paper or housewrap should be installed behind the siding to protect against water damage.  Drainage holes or slots in horizontal vinyl siding allow water behind the siding to drain.
• It is best for lap joints to be staggered and not lined up vertically.
• When properly installed, surface-mounted fixtures, such as exterior lights, should not be mounted directly to vinyl siding.  They should be mounted on mounting blocks instead, since fasteners penetrating the siding will restrict the siding’s natural expansion and contraction, causing problems.
• Corrosion-resistant fasteners are always best for any outdoor installation.
• When properly installed, vinyl siding will terminate in J-molding around windows and doors.

 
While vinyl siding has become extremely popular due to the advantages it provides, in some instances, such as when historic preservation is of primary concern, it may not be the best choice.  Wolf Home Inspectors who know more about vinyl siding will be well-prepared to answer clients’ questions.  In general, proper installation is the main concern with this type of exterior cladding.  When correctly installed and maintained, vinyl siding is attractive and durable, and can last for many years.

"Aging in place" describes a senior citizen's ability to live independently in their home for as long as possible. Those who age in place will not have to move from their present residence to secure necessary support services in response to their changing needs.The Baby Boomers
As "baby boomers" age (the demographic of people born between 1946 and 1964), the 60+ population has spiked. In 2022, there were nearly 58 million people in the U.S. over the age of 65.  As of 2023, there were 1.3 million people residing in nursing homes.  Research shows that baby boomers’ expectations of how they will receive care differ from that of their parents’ generation.  Overwhelmingly, they will seek care in their own homes and will be less likely to move into congregate living settings.
Why do many senior citizens prefer to age in place? 
Nursing homes, to many, represent a loss of freedom and a reduced quality of life. Here are a few good reasons why these fears are justified:

• Between 2013 and 2017, the National Institutes of Health identified nearly half a million complaints containing nearly a million separate allegations of mismanagement, neglect, and/or abuse, resulting in the issuance of over 150,000 deficiency citations by the government agency. These complaints involve the abuse or neglect of patients, such as infected bedsores, medication mix-ups, poor nutrition, and other forms of neglect.
• A significant percentage of nursing homes were cited for deficiencies that caused immediate jeopardy or actual harm to patients, including physical and/or sexual abuse by nursing home staff.
• Many cases have been exposed in which nursing homes billed Medicare and Medicaid for services that were not provided.
  
  

Aging-in-Place Inspections  
Inspectors may recommend corrections and adaptations to the home to improve maneuverability, accessibility, and safety for elderly occupants and even non-elderly residents whose mobility is compromised.
Some such alterations and recommendations for a home include the following.

• Appliances:
  
  • microwave oven mounted in the wall or on the counter;
  • refrigerator and freezer side by side;
  • side-swing or wall oven;
  • controls that are easy to read;
  • raised washing machine and dryer;
  • front-loading washing machine;
  • raised dishwasher with push-button controls;
  • stove having an electric cooktop, with level burners for safely transferring between the burners; front controls and downdraft feature to pull heat away from the user; a light to indicate when surface is hot; and 
  • replace old stoves with induction cooktops to help prevent burns.
    
    
• Bathroom:
  
  • fold-down seat installed in the shower;
  • adjustable showerheads with 6-foot hose;
  • light in the shower stall;
  • wall support and provision for adjustable and/or varied-height counters and removable base cabinets;
  • contrasting color edge border at countertops;
  • at least one wheelchair-maneuverable bath on main level;
  • bracing in walls around tub, shower, shower seat and toilet for installation of grab bars;
  • if stand-up shower is used in main bath, it is curbless and wide;
  • low bathtub;
  • toilet higher than standard toilet, or height-adjustable;
  • design of the toilet paper holder allows rolls to be changed with one hand;
  • wall-hung sink with knee space and panel to protect user from pipes; and
  • slip-resistant flooring in bathroom and shower.
    
    
• Counters:
  
  • base cabinet with roll-out trays;
  • pull-down shelving;
  • wall support, and provision for adjustable and/or varied-height counters and removable base cabinets;
  • upper wall cabinetry lower than conventional height;
  • accented stripes on edge of countertops to provide visual orientation to the workspace;
  • counter space for dish landing adjacent to or opposite all appliances;
  • glass-front cabinet doors; and
  • open shelving for easy access to frequently used items.
    
    
• Exterior:
  
  • low-maintenance exterior (vinyl, brick, etc); and 
  • low-maintenance shrubs and plants.
    
    
• Entry:
  
  • sensor light at exterior no-step entry focusing on the front-door lock;
  • non-slip flooring in foyer;
  • accessible path of travel to the home;
  • at least one no-step entry with a cover;
  • entry door sidelight or high/low peep hole viewer; sidelight should provide both privacy and safety;
  • doorbell in accessible location; and
  • a surface on which to place packages while opening door.
    
    
• Electrical, Lighting, Safety and Security:
  
  • install new smoke and CO detectors;
  • install automated lighting, an emergency alert system, or a video-monitoring system;
  • easy-to-see and read thermostats;
  • light switches by each entrance to halls and rooms;
  • light receptacles with at least two bulbs in vital places (exits, bathroom);
  • light switches, thermostats and other environmental controls placed in accessible locations no higher than 48 inches from floor;
  • move electrical cords out of the flow of traffic;
  • replace standard light switches with rocker or touch-light switches; and
  • pre-programmed thermostats.

• Faucets:

• • thermostatic or anti-scald controls;
  • lever handles or pedal-controlled; and
  • pressure-balanced faucets.
• Flooring:
  
  • if carpeted, use low-density with firm pad;
  • smooth, non-glare, slip-resistant surfaces, interior and exterior; and
  • color and texture contrast to indicate change in surface levels.
    
    
• Hallways:
  
  • wide;
  • well-lit; and
  • fasten down rugs and floor runners, and remove any that are not necessary.
    
    
• Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning:
  
  • install energy-efficient units;
  • HVAC should be designed so filters are easily accessible; and 
  • windows that can be opened for cross-ventilation and fresh air.
    
    
• Miscellaneous:
  
  • 30-inch by 48-inch clear space at appliances, or 60-inch diameter clear space for turns;
  • multi-level work areas to accommodate cooks of different heights;
  • loop handles for easy grip and pull;
  • pull-out spray faucet;
  • levered handles;
  • in multi-story homes, laundry chute or laundry facilities in master bedroom;
  • open under-counter seated work areas; and
  • placement of task lighting in appropriate work areas.
    
    
• Overall Floor Plan:
  
  • main living on a single story, including full bath;
  • 5-foot by 5-foot clear turn space in living area, kitchen, a bedroom and a bathroom; and
  • no steps between rooms on a single level.
    
    
• Reduced Maintenance and Convenience Features:
  
  • easy-to-clean surfaces;
  • built-in recycling system;
  • video phones;
  • central vacuum;
  • built-in pet feeding system; and
  • intercom system.
    
    
• Stairways, Lifts and Elevators:
  
  • adequate hand rails on both sides of stairway;
  • residential elevator or lift; and
  • increased visibility of stairs through contrast strip on top and bottom stairs, and color contrast between treads and risers on stairs with use of lighting.
    
    
• Storage:
  
  • lighting in closets;
  • adjustable closet rods and shelves; and
  • easy-open doors that do not obstruct access.
    
    
• Windows:
  
  • plenty of windows for natural light;
  • low-maintenance exterior and interior finishes;
  • lowered windows, or taller windows with lower sill height; and
  • easy-to-operate hardware.
  
  

Advice for those who wish to age in place:

• Talk with family members about your long-term living preferences. Do you want to downsize to a smaller single-family home, or do you plan to stay put in your traditional family home?
• Take a look at your finances and retirement funds. With your current savings and assets, will you be able to pay for home maintenance? Consider starting a separate retirement savings account strictly for home maintenance.
• Remodel your home before your mobility becomes limited. As you age, changes in mobility, hearing, vision and overall health and flexibility will affect how easily you function in your home. Consider making your home “age-friendly” as a phased-in and budgeted home improvement, rather than waiting until you need many modifications at a time due to a health crisis.
• If you decide before you retire that you want to live in your current home through the remainder of life, consider paying for “big ticket – long life” home projects while you still have a healthy income. Such items may include having the roof assessed or replaced, replacing and upgrading the water heater or cooling unit, completing termite inspections and treatment, having a septic tank inspection and replacement, as needed, and purchasing a riding lawn mower.
• Most seniors leave their homes due to functional and mobility limitations that result from medical crises, and an inability to pay for support to stay with them in their home. Effectively managing health risks and maintaining a healthy lifestyle can help you stay strong, age well, and live long at your own home.

In summary, aging in place is a way by which senior citizens can avoid being dependent on others due to declining health and mobility.

Why all real estate agents should only recommend InterNACHI® inspectors
InterNACHI® is so sure of its inspectors that it will indemnify any licensed real estate agent in an amount up to $10,000 if a third party successfully sues the agent for negligent referral of an InterNACHI® inspector.  This protection is offered at no cost to agents who register.  

This is how the program works:

1. The agent must be a licensed real estate agent or broker in the relevant jurisdiction at the time of the referral.
2. The referral must be made to an inspector who is a member in good standing of InterNACHI® at the time of the referral.
3. The program is only available for residential inspections; it does not apply to inspections of commercial properties.
4. The InterNACHI® member must have a written inspection agreement with the customer at the time of the inspection.
5. The agent is not required to refer potential customers only to InterNACHI® inspectors.  The agent may provide the names of more than one inspector, but the program will still apply if the potential customer selects an InterNACHI® inspector as a result of the referral and the agent otherwise qualifies.
6. The agent must admit to having made the referral.
7. The agent must register with InterNACHI® prior to making the referral. After registering, the agent will obtain an InterNACHI® login which confirms that he or she has registered.
8. By registering for the program, the agent (on behalf of himself, his heirs, successors and assigns, and on behalf of the company that employs the agent) represents and agrees as follows:
   
   
   a.  Agent is authorized by agent’s employer to register for the program.
   b.  The exclusive venue for any litigation arising against InterNACHI® or its officers as a result of the agent’s participation in the program shall be in the County or District Court of Boulder County, Colorado. Agent and agent’s employer must submit to the exercise of personal jurisdiction over them by those courts.  In any such action, the parties waive trial by jury.  If InterNACHI® prevails in any such action, the agent shall pay InterNACHI®’s attorney’s fees, expert witness fees, and costs.  Colorado law will govern any such action. 
   c.  There are no other promises or representations of InterNACHI® that are not set forth here. 
   d.  The terms of this program cannot be modified except in a written document signed by an authorized officer of InterNACHI®.
9. The agent must promptly notify InterNACHI® in writing when he or she first becomes aware that a person is claiming that the agent was negligent in referring the person to an InterNACHI® inspector.  The notice must include the name of the claimant and a summary of the relevant facts.  The agent must send the notice by certified mail to InterNACHI®, 1750 30th Street, Suite 301, Boulder, CO  80301.
10. The agent must provide InterNACHI® with a certified copy of the judgment entered against the agent, which must be the result of a lawsuit against the agent for negligent referral to an InterNACHI® inspector.
11. Upon receiving a certified copy of the judgment and satisfactory proof that the judgment resulted from an action against the agent for negligent referral to an InterNACHI® inspector, InterNACHI® will pay the agent the amount of the judgment up to $10,000, but only to the extent that the agent does not have insurance coverage to pay the judgment.  The agent must provide all relevant insurance and other information to InterNACHI® sufficient for InterNACHI® to determine that the agent qualifies for payment. 
12. The limit is $10,000 per incident.  If the plaintiff sues and prevails against more than one agent and/or a company that employs or has a relationship with an agent, InterNACHI® will pay only once.  If a court enters judgment against more than one agent or against an agent and the agent’s employer, InterNACHI® will pay a prorated share of the $10,000 to each such person or entity.
13. The agent must use the money to pay the judgment.

 
REGISTER NOW
for InterNACHI's Free Negligent Referral Protection Plan 
 
...and never refer your clients to anyone less than an InterNACHI inspector. 
​

by Nick Gromicko, CMI® 

Solar energy offers considerable advantages over conventional energy systems by nullifying flaws in those systems long considered to be unchangeable. Solar power for home energy production has its flaws, too, which are outlined in another article, but they're dwarfed by the advantages listed below. 

The following are advantages of solar energy:

• Raw materials are renewable and unlimited. The amount of available solar energy is staggering -- roughly 10,000 times that currently required by humans -- and it’s constantly replaced. A mere 0.02% of incoming sunlight, if captured correctly, would be sufficient to replace every other fuel source currently used. Granted, the Earth does need much of this solar energy to drive its weather, so let’s look only at the unused portion of sunlight that is reflected back into space, known as the albedo. Earth’s average albedo is around 30%, meaning that roughly 52 petawatts of energy is reflected by the Earth and lost into space every year. Compare this number with global energy-consumption statistics.  Annually, the energy lost to space is the combined equivalent of 400 hurricanes, 1 million Hoover Dams, Great Britain's energy requirement for 250,000 years, worldwide oil, gas and coal production for 387 years, 75 million cars, and 50 million 747s running perpetually for one year (not to mention 1 million fictional DeLorean time machines!). 

​

• Solar power is low-emission. Solar panels produce no pollution, although they impose environmental costs through manufacture and construction. These environmental tolls are negligible, however, when compared with the damage inflicted by conventional energy sources:  the burning of fossil fuels releases roughly 21.3 billion metric tons of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere annually. 

• Solar power is suitable for remote areas that are not connected to energy grids. It may come as a surprise to city-dwellers but, according to Home Power Magazine, as of 2006, 180,000 houses in the United States were off-grid, and that figure is likely considerably higher today. California, Colorado, Maine, Oregon, Vermont and Washington have long been refuges for such energy rebels, though people live off the grid in every state. While many of these people shun the grid on principle, owing to politics and environmental concerns, few of the world’s 1.8 billion off-the-gridders have any choice in the matter. Solar energy can drastically improve the quality of life for millions of people who live in the dark, especially in places such as Sub-Saharan Africa, where as many as 90% of the rural population lacks access to electricity. People in these areas must rely on fuel-based lighting, which inflicts significant social and environmental costs, from jeopardized health through contamination of indoor air, to limited overall productivity.   
  
  
• Solar power provides green jobs. Production of solar panels for domestic use is becoming a growing source of employment in research, manufacture, sales and installation.
  
  
• Solar panels contain no moving parts and thus produce no noise. Wind turbines, by contrast, require noisy gearboxes and blades.
  
  
• In the long run, solar power is economical. Solar panels and installation involve high initial expenses, but this cost is soon offset by savings on energy bills.  Eventually, they may even produce a profit on their use.
  
  
• Solar power takes advantage of net metering, which is the practice of crediting homeowners for electricity they produce and return to the power grid. As part of the Energy Policy Act of 2005, public electric utilities are required to make available, upon request, net metering to their customers. This practice offers an advantage for homeowners who use solar panels (or wind turbines or fuel cells) that may, at times, produce more energy than their homes require. If net metering is not an option, excess energy may be stored in batteries.
  
  
• Solar power can mean government tax credits. U.S. federal subsidies credit up to 30% of system costs, and each state offers its own incentives. California, blessed with abundant sunshine and plagued by high electric rates and an over-taxed grid, was the first state to offer generous renewable-energy incentives for homes and businesses.
  
  
• Solar power is reliable. Many homeowners favor solar energy because it is virtually immune to potential failings of utility companies, mainly in the form of political or economic turmoil, terrorism, natural disasters, or brownouts due to overuse. The Northeast Blackout of 2003 unplugged 55 million people across two countries, while rolling blackouts are a part of regular life in some South Asian countries, and occasionally in California and Texas.
  
  
• Solar power conserves foreign energy expenditures. In many countries, a large percentage of earnings is used to pay for imported oil for power generation. The United States alone spends $13 million per hour on oil, much of which comes from Persian Gulf nations. As oil supplies dwindle and prices rise in this politically unstable region, these problems continue to catalyze the expansion of solar power and other alternative-energy systems.

In summary, solar energy offers advantages to conventional fossil fuels and other renewable energy systems.

 
 
 

by Nick Gromicko, CMI®
 
Purchasing foreclosed homes in desirable areas at below-market values can be a sound investment strategy. Appreciation on their original prices may be tax-free.  Buying foreclosed rental properties can provide positive cash flow, as well as valuable tax deductions. On the other hand, buying a foreclosure involves homework, patience, and a certain amount of luck. For those wishing to get a bargain house through the foreclosure process, it’s best to learn the basics.
 
​Four Ways to Buy a Foreclosed Home

• A presale is when the prospective buyer negotiates with the current owner before the house is foreclosed upon. Presale discounts can be considerable, but communicating and reasoning with the owner isn’t always easy; they might have legal problems, lost their phone service or electricity, or greet you with suspicion, having already been hounded and threatened by creditors. And after time and energy have been invested, the deal can fall through if the owner comes up with the money to repay their debt, or for any number of unexpected reasons. With persistence, however, the seasoned real estate investor can profit from presales. To find out about presales, you can try one of the following avenues:
  • Ask your local county court how to search new notices of default.
  • Find out if the County Recorder has data available online.
  • Look in the "legal notices" section of the newspaper for properties that are coming up for sale at public auction. Take note of the address, the property owner’s name, the tax ID, and whatever other information is contained in the ad.
• A foreclosed home may be sold at a public auction, in which buyers can expect a discount of 10% to 25% of market value. Interested bidders are generally required to show proof of financing, and must have a minimum cash deposit before they are qualified to bid. It might be impossible to gain entry to inspect the interior, too, which makes this type of purchase risky. The local building department may have permit records that can clue you in to the building’s layout and appearance.
• A real estate-owned (REO) sale is a transaction where a foreclosed house is purchased directly from the bank. These properties typically wound up in the bank’s portfolio after failing to sell at auction. REO investments are relatively safe, as there are no tenants to evict or hidden liens and, unlike properties sold at public auction, buyers can usually receive a mortgage to pay for them. And purchasers might even get an unused house; the slow economy has left many builders at the end of their construction-loan periods without finding buyers for the homes, in which case the bank will foreclose on the brand new homes. Unfortunately, REOs are usually offered at near-market prices to recoup the costs of property taxes, maintenance and legal fees. To find REOs, try the following:
  • Check lenders’ websites, as they may have a list of their REOs, along with contact information for the appropriate real estate agent.
  • Call lenders and ask to speak to someone who handles their foreclosures.
  • Check newspapers.
• The Department of Housing and Urban Development has tens of thousands of HUD homes whose previous owners defaulted on federally issued loans. After a period during which local governments gain exclusive buying privileges, they become available to individual buyers who pledge to live in the property. After another 10 days, investors may bid on the property. It’s difficult to make a profit on these houses, as HUD releases them at near-market values.

​Tips for Foreclosure Purchases

• Invest time in research and preparation. Those new to the field should spend some time learning the variables of foreclosure investing before making any purchases.
• Budget carefully to prepare for the unexpected. The house may require unforeseen repairs, such as a leaky roof or unstable deck. The price tag of the home itself is often just the first of a series of fees. What if you planned on rental cash flow to cover the mortgage, but you can’t find a tenant?
• Avoid buying a foreclosure sight-unseen. Try to see the house yourself before buying it, or hire someone to evaluate at it in your absence. Distant investors are buying up properties unseen in bulk, and they’re often unpleasantly surprised at how much they’ve been misled.
• Evaluate the neighborhood. If the foreclosure is rife with problems, but it’s in a desirable area with high property resale values, it may still be worth it to make a low offer. An area with several foreclosures or a high crime rate can undermine an otherwise good deal, however.
• Consider how long the house has been vacant. Building damage – and the costs required to make the house livable - generally increases with the time that has lapsed since the last tenant vacated. Pests are a particular issue in houses that have been empty for a long time, and plumbing defects and leaks increase in likelihood in such homes, as well.
• Examine the landscaping. Left unchecked, trees can send their roots into the foundation, and vines can creep into the windows.
• Has the house been professionally inspected by an InterNACHI inspector? Foreclosures can be notorious for damage suffered at the hands of past tenants, through both inadvertent and intentional vandalism and theft.

In summary, there are a number of ways to go about buying a foreclosed home, and buyers should exercise patience, persistence and careful planning before buying foreclosed properties.

by Nick Gromicko, CMI® and Kate Tarasenko

A barn is an agricultural building, typically located on a ranch or farm (or former ranch or farm), and used for a variety of purposes, including:

• the storage of farming vehicles, equipment and supplies; 
• housing livestock;
• storing hay and other livestock food supplies; and
• as a covered work area.

Inspectors who work in rural areas may be asked to inspect a barn, but, before they do, they should consider the following two questions:

1. Is the barn in a northern climate where it snows?
   
   In snowy climates, long, unsupported spans and a lack of interior structural support can make barn roofs vulnerable to collapse. Melted snow can also cause ice dams and structural issues related to moisture intrusion, as well as mold growth.
   
   
2. In a property sale, are the buyers going to use the barn for the same purpose as the sellers or current occupants?
   
   It's not uncommon for clients to purchase a property for its pastoral and rustic setting because it includes a barn but then not use the structure for its original purpose of housing animals. The buyer may be unaware that the barn was protected from freeze-thaw cycles by the body heat provided by the animals that the barn may have formerly housed, and the absence of animals and the natural warming they provided can lead to foundation and structural problems brought on by cold weather.  If a barn is to be converted from a structure that houses livestock to living space for the family, homeowners can expect to make certain modifications beyond those meant merely for aesthetics and convenience.

Personal Protection Equipment

While inspecting barns, inspectors should wear the appropriate personal protection equipment (PPE), including boots, gloves and respirators, especially if the structures are older or poorly ventilated. Some inspectors are surprised by how dirty barn air can be, reporting that one can almost taste ammonia or dust in the air.  These may be the result of lingering animal waste, a failure to properly clean and maintain the interior of the structure, and/or a failure to make repairs to the structure itself. 
Hazards to Look For  
In and around the barn, inspectors can look for the following issues:

• kick damage from horses or livestock;
• manure piles deposited too close to the exterior of the barn;
• excessive dust. Primarily originating from hay, dust can irritate the eyes and respiratory systems of both humans and livestock;
• exposed nails, sharp edges and splinters;
• non-GFCI protected lights and electrical receptacles;
• extension cords.  An older barn may not have an updated electrical system, including a lack of receptacles or outlets.  Extension cords may overload the system and can also pose a tripping hazard;
• exposed electrical wires that may be reached by inquisitive animals or children;
• a lack of ventilation or shade in the livestock pens, which can cause animals to overheat;
• insufficient room at the feed rack for animals to eat;
• farm implements, such as ladders and hand tools, and farm machinery stored too near animals or in the path of people; and
• fire hazards that are particular to outbuildings and farm structures. 

Barns contain both natural and man-made flammables.  For this reason, barn fires can be devastating and get out of control in a few seconds, especially if the property is located far away from first-responders.
 
Some of these fire hazards include:

• excessive cobwebs on ceilings and walls, especially near light or heat sources;
• hay stored near sources of light or heat;
• plastic and chemical items that can potentially lead to a fire, if not stored properly.  Such items include plastic water buckets, nylon hay bags, nylon saddlebags, plastic stall signs, and chemical flammables, such as weed killers and insecticides;
• no lightning rod. Barns are often built in fields away from trees and other structures, making them prone to lightning strikes and subsequent fires;
• no fire extinguishers; and
• an unmaintained or unmowed field around the barn. 
  
  

Recommendations for Owners
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Inspectors can recommend that owners exercise the following precautions to ensure a safe barn area for both people and animals:

• Loose tools and implements can cause injury, so they should be secured or stored out of the way of pens and footpaths.
• Feed bags and buckets should be emptied and stowed to prevent injury and to avoid creating an easily accessible food source for rodents and other unwelcome pests, which are natural inhabitants on farms anyway. The same goes for water and food bowls for cats and dogs on the farm.
• Water hoses should be drained, coiled and hung off of the floor. 
• Exposed splinters and nails should be removed or hammered in, and sharp edges should be sanded smooth, with broken boards replaced.
• Electrical wires should run through conduits and not be in plain sight.
• Gasoline, oil and other chemicals should be stored in appropriate sealed containers and out of the feed and animal areas to prevent accidental poisoning or contamination.
• ABC-type fire extinguishers, which can put out wood, fire and hazardous chemical fires, should be placed every 75 feet, according to the University of New Hampshire’s Cooperative Extension.
• Hay is extremely flammable and should be stored in a separate building, if possible. Hay should be dried before storage, as wet hay produces heat and can spontaneously combust.
• Light sources should be covered with a protective covering.  Jelly-jar fixtures are a common installation in barns.
• Doors should be self-latching to prevent the escape of barned animals and the entry of intruders.
• Portable electric heat sources should be turned off and unplugged before leaving the barn, as well as away from any potential fuel.
• Wood stoves should be properly ventilated, with their fuel kept in a safe container and at a safe distance so as to prevent accidental ignition.
• Skylights and windows should be checked for moisture intrusion and signs of mold growth. 
• Whitewashing the interior brick or cement walls every year or so can decrease the incidence of moisture intrusion and mold growth.
• Animal waste should be evacuated from the interior at least daily.
• Conveyor belts used for feeding or for removing waste should be checked regularly to ensure that they are free of oil and dust buildup, which can lead to accidental fire as well as malfunction.
• Dry, tall grass can act as kindling, so a moderate defensible space around outbuildings should be maintained.
• If firewood is used in the home, it should be stored a safe distance from any outbuildings to prevent pest infestation and fire hazards.
• Jute mats should be placed at the barn's entrances to wipe off boots before entering the barn in order to keep its floors as dry and clean as possible to prevent slip hazards.
• Barns should be mucked out and swept daily, and more often during times of increased activity, not only to keep floors free of slip hazards but also to keep unwanted pests and odors in check.

In summary, barns should be maintained properly by their owners as well as inspected for mechanical, electrical and fire hazards by a qualified InterNACHI inspector.